Jeep Wrangler 4xe (Ang)

This week we are reviewing the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 4xe. Our vehicle was assembled at the Toledo assembly plant in Ohio and has an MSRP of 74340.00 CAD before incentives.

Photo by Kate Bee

Fun Factor: 9

Can it Family: 7

Fuel-Friendly: 9

HWY-warrior: 6

Karaoke-Friendly: 8

Baby-Friendly: 4

City Cruising: 9

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

The 4xe (pronounced 4 by e) is a plug-in hybrid, and no, it’s not comparable to a Prius. Naturally, we had no choice but to test its off-road prowess with the family. And, yes, we had to compare how it managed the trail when driving it in electric mode to its powerful hybrid powertrain. We chose a moderately difficult path where it didn’t sweat rock climbing, going through puddles of water and even sliding down a dune. We were able to do 95% of the 25km course in its EV mode. The only instance we required engine assistance was going up a steep, wet, rocky hill with lots of sand; we needed some momentum to give it that additional edge to climb these obstacles. When driving in electric mode, your surroundings become one with the Jeep. You can enjoy the wildlife to its fullest. Okay, maybe not the flies and the mosquitos.

Photo by Kate Bee

Driving a Jeep Wrangler with the Sky One-Touch roof is an entirely different experience, no need to remove the top for a convertible vibe. Sure, you can still remove it; however, it’s so convenient to open and close depending on Mother Nature’s changing temperament. The Jeep Wrangler 4xe has an announced range of 34km with its 17 kWh lithium-ion battery; this range is more than realistic as we have been capable of doing up to 51km in the best conditions. Otherwise, we have been seen a range between 43 to 45km during mixed driving.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

Under the hood of the 4xe, you will find a 2.0L turbocharged four-cylinder combined with an electric motor producing 375hp and 470 lb-ft of torque. This figure, just as a comparison, is as much torque as the Rubicon 392. While the power band isn’t the same, the acceleration of the 4xe still amazes with its 0-100km/h in under 6 seconds. To achieve maximum power, the Jeep needs to be in « 4 high ».

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

As a family vehicle, the Jeep can handle up to 5 passengers. The seats in the back will seat 2 adults comfortably or 3 kids. On the flip side, the back seatbelts may not be the most comfortable ones for adults. They come down at an angle, and you may have the sensation of being strapped to the vehicle instead of buckled up. The driver and the co-pilot will have their bums nice and toasty in the winter. As for the driver, they also get the heated steering wheel with the cold weather group.

During our test, we were able to achieve regularly over 40km with the 4xe, giving us an average fuel economy of 5.6L/100km during our 1200km test. The more you charge, the lower the fuel economy will be, and it may take weeks before needing to fill up again, especially if your commute is less than 20km. Once the battery depletes, you can expect a fuel economy of 11.2L per 100km in the city. We saw an average fuel economy of 12.1L per 100km when travelling at 120km/h with all-terrain tires, slightly higher than the non-hybrid versions. Overall, if you charge it every night, your average fuel economy will be significantly lower than a traditional Jeep, even if you exceed your electric range. Jeep announces the combined hybrid fuel economy to be at 4.8Le/100km. If you do not charge the vehicle, the fuel economy announced is 11.6L per 100km in the city, 11.9L on the Hwy and a combined 11.7L/100km.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

On the Hwy, like any boxed-shaped vehicle, you will encounter lots of wind noise. Over the years, the Wrangler has improved the overall exterior noise getting into the cabin. We expected this to worsen with the Sky-One Touch roof; yet, it wasn’t that unpleasant. We were somewhat disappointed that some of the security features are bundled up as options. One is the safety group that encompasses the blind-spot monitoring and the rear parking sensors. The advanced safety group gives you adaptive cruise control, advanced braking assists and forward collision warning. In our opinion, this should all be standard on the Rubicon trim.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

The Alpine standard 9-speaker sound system will rock you on the road, off-road and with the rooftop removed. Overall it’s a pretty good system; we had the chance to use it at the drive-in theatre, and it worked like a charm. The infotainment still used the previous version of Uconnect; while it works fine in the Wrangler, some of the pages dedicated to the hybrid powertrain take forever to load. The system allows Android Auto and Apple Car Play to be used via a standard USB or USB-C cable.

The height of the vehicle may make it more challenging to place the car seats. A maximum of 2 car seats can be installed. When it comes to the actual installation of car seats, the hardware makes this hassle-free. The latches are bigger than in other vehicles and are also exposed. There are 3 anchor ports in the back seats that are well marked. As for the different car seats, the one that might result in the least comfortable position for front passengers is an infant car seat and will probably result in the passenger knees kissing the dash. As for rear-facing car seats, those will allow more legroom for passengers in front. As for any forward-facing car seats, they will require that you remove the headrest to install them freely. Finally, the booster seats are less than ideal in the Wrangle as the seat belts come from the sides, making the fit improper. Kids will also require assistance opening the doors and getting into the vehicle due to its height. It’s a small price to pay for a lifestyle vehicle that can bring the family almost anywhere.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

As a city cruiser, the Wrangler 4xe makes so much sense. Mainly due to the +40km we achieved per charge. One day we were even able to reach over 100km charging it on 2 separate occasions. From empty to full, it takes about 2 hours and 50 minutes on a level 2. We found that it could take up to 30 minutes to charge from 99% to 100% and found ourselves often unplugging at 99%. Yes, that additional 1% often only gave us an extra kilometre, which shows that the battery management system has been set up to extend the battery life of your 4xe. Finally, the suspension is so comfortable that you can barely feel any road imperfections.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

Why would we buy the 2021 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 4xe, or what we liked about it? It’s a freaking plug-in hybrid Jeep; what’s not to like about it! A decent EV range, decent fuel economy can be achieved when driving smoothly. The Sky One-Touch roof was such a fantastic feature to use while on days with mixed weather.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

Why would we not buy the 2021 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 4xe, or what we did not like about it? The all-terrain tires make for average handling on paved roads, especially at higher speeds; the regeneration or battery hold system doesn’t seem to charge the battery quickly; we only saw this work while driving undulated roads. The hybrid powertrain can be jerky at times. The electric powertrain is quite loud.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

Jeep has lent us this vehicle one week as a press vehicle. We have no affiliation with Stellantis Canada. The above is a recollection of our personal opinion of the car referred above.

Additional photos by Vince P. Szigeti & Kate Bee

Texte by Alain Kuhn Von Kuhnenfeld

For more go see the link. BLOG | Driving Fun & Family Car Reviews (drivingfunandfamilycarreviews.com)

Jeep Wrangler 4xe (FR)

Jeep Wrangler 4xe

Cette semaine, nous passons en revue le Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 4xe. Notre véhicule d’essai, qui a été assemblé à l’usine de Toledo en Ohio, se vend 74 340 $ CA (PDSF) sans les rabais gouvernementaux.

Photo by Kate Bee

Facteur d’amusement : 9

Bon pour la famille : 7

Économie de carburant : 9

Autoroute : 6

Ambiophonique : 8

Bon pour les bébés : 4

Promenade en ville : 9

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti


Le 4xe est un véhicule hybride rechargeable qui, soit dit en passant, ne se compare pas au Prius. Évidemment, nous voulions voir ses prouesses hors route avec la famille. Nous voulions aussi le comparer en sentier en mode tout électrique et en mode hybride avec son puissant groupe motopropulseur. Nous avons choisi un sentier modérément difficile où il n’y avait d’ascension de roche. Nous avons traversé des trous d’eau et même descendu une dune. Nous avons parcouru 95 % du trajet de 25 km en mode tout électrique. Nous avons recouru au moteur une seule fois pour monter une colline abrupte, rocailleuse et mouillée qui contenait beaucoup de sable. Nous avons eu besoin d’un certain élan pour donner au Jeep un avantage supplémentaire pour franchir ces obstacles. En conduisant en mode électrique, votre environnement ne fait qu’un avec le Jeep, et vous pouvez profiter pleinement de la vie sauvage (bon, peut-être pas des mouches et des moustiques).

Photo by Kate Bee

Conduire un Jeep Wrangler avec le toit Sky One-Touch est une expérience entièrement différente. Pas besoin d’enlever le toit pour se sentir en décapotable. Il s’enlève, bien sûr, mais c’est tellement pratique de pouvoir l’ouvrir et le fermer en fonction du tempérament changeant de Mère Nature. Jeep annonce une autonomie de 34 km en mode tout électrique avec le bloc-batterie au lithium-ion de 17 kWh, ce qui est plus que réaliste, car nous avons parcouru jusqu’à 51 km dans les meilleures conditions. Autrement, nous avons constaté une autonomie de 43 à 45 km en conduite mixte.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

Sous le capot du 4xe, on retrouve un moteur turbocompressé à 4 cylindres de 2 litres combiné à un moteur électrique, développant une puissance de 375 chevaux et produisant un couple de 470 livres-pieds. À titre de comparaison, le couple est le même que sur le Rubicon 392. Même si la bande de puissance n’est pas la même, l’accélération du 4xe est impressionnante; le 0-100 km/h se fait en moins de 6 secondes. Pour atteindre la puissance maximale, il faut être en 4×4 Hi.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

En tant que véhicule familial, le Jeep peut accueillir jusqu’à 5 passagers. Les sièges arrière peuvent assoir confortablement 2 adultes ou 3 enfants. Les ceintures de sécurité arrière ne sont pas nécessairement les plus confortables pour les adultes, car elles s’abaissent en biais et pourraient vous donner l’impression que vous êtes attachés au véhicule. Le conducteur et le copilote auront les fesses bien au chaud l’hiver. Le volant chauffant fait aussi partie de l’ensemble temps froid.

Durant notre essai de 1200 km, nous avons régulièrement réussi à faire plus de 40 km, notant une consommation de carburant moyenne de 5,6 L/100 km. Plus la batterie est rechargée, plus la consommation de carburant est faible, et ça peut prendre des semaines avant de devoir refaire le plein, surtout si le trajet est inférieur à 20 km. Une fois la batterie épuisée, il faut s’attendre à une consommation de 11,2 L/100 km en ville. Nous avons constaté une consommation moyenne de 12,1 L/100 km en roulant à 120 km/h avec des pneus tout-terrain, ce qui est légèrement supérieur aux versions non hybrides. En général, en rechargeant la batterie toutes les nuits, la consommation de carburant moyenne sera nettement inférieure à celle d’un Jeep conventionnel, même en dépassant l’autonomie électrique. Jeep annonce une consommation de carburant de 4,8 L/100 km en mode hybride, et en ne rechargeant pas la batterie, de 11,6 L/100 km en ville, de 11,9 L /100 km sur route et de 11,7 L/100 km combiné.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

Sur l’autoroute, comme dans n’importe quel véhicule de forme carrée, vous entendrez beaucoup de bruit de vent. Au cours des années, le Wrangler s’est amélioré en matière de bruit extérieur pénétrant dans l’habitacle. Nous nous attendions à ce que ce soit pire avec le toit Sky-One Touch, mais ce n’était pas si désagréable. Nous étions un peu déçus que certaines caractéristiques de sécurité soient livrables en option. L’un des ensembles comprend le système de surveillance des angles morts et les capteurs de stationnement arrière. L’ensemble de sécurité avancée offre le régulateur de vitesse adaptatif, l’assistance au freinage avancée et le système d’alerte de collision avant. Selon nous, tous ces équipements devraient déjà être inclus dans le modèle Rubicon.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

Le système audio Alpine à 9 haut-parleurs vous fera vibrer sur la route, hors route et lorsque le toit est enlevé. En gros, c’est un bon système. Nous l’avons essayé au ciné-parc, et il a fonctionné à merveille. Le système de renseignements et de divertissement utilise la version précédente de Uconnect. Il fonctionne bien avec le Wrangler, mais certaines pages dédiées au modèle hybride prennent beaucoup de temps à se charger. Le système permet d’utiliser Android Auto et Apple CarPlay par câble USB ou USB-C standard. 

La hauteur du véhicule peut rendre plus difficile l’installation des sièges d’auto pour enfants. Un maximum de deux sièges d’auto peut être installé. L’installation en soi se fait sans problème grâce au matériel. Les loquets sont exposés et plus gros que dans les autres véhicules. Il y a trois dispositifs d’ancrage dans les sièges arrière qui sont bien indiqués. Parmi les types de sièges d’auto pour enfants, c’est le siège pour bébé qui pourrait créer le plus d’inconfort pour les occupants à l’avant, qui risquent d’avoir les genoux collés au tableau de bord. Les sièges d’auto orientés vers l’arrière offrent plus d’espace pour les jambes aux occupants à l’avant. Quant aux sièges d’auto orientés vers l’avant, il faut enlever l’appui-tête pour les installer librement. Enfin, les sièges d’appoint ne sont pas l’idéal dans le Wrangler à cause des ceintures de sécurité qui viennent des côtés, ce qui empêche de les ajuster correctement. Les enfants auront besoin d’aide pour ouvrir les portes et pour monter dans le véhicule en raison de sa hauteur. C’est un petit prix à payer pour avoir un véhicule lifestyle qui peut promener la famille presque partout. 

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

En tant que véhicule de ville, le 4xe a du sens, principalement grâce aux 40 km et plus que nous avons parcourus par charge. En une journée, nous avons même atteint plus de 100 km en rechargeant deux fois. Ça prend environ 2 heures et 50 minutes en niveau 2 pour recharger une batterie de vide à plein. Nous avons constaté que ça peut prendre jusqu’à 30 minutes pour charger de 99 % à 100 %, et nous avons souvent débranché le véhicule à 99 %. Oui, ce 1 % supplémentaire ne nous a souvent donné qu’un kilomètre de plus, ce qui démontre que le système de gestion de la batterie a été conçu pour prolonger l’autonomie. Enfin, la suspension est tellement confortable que les imperfections de la route se font à peine ressentir.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

Pourquoi achèterions-nous le Wrangler Rubicon 4xe 2021? Qu’est-ce que nous avons aimé? C’est un Jeep hybride rechargeable après tout! Une autonomie électrique correcte et une consommation de carburant aussi correcte sont possibles en conduisant doucement. Le toit Sky One-Touch est une caractéristique très utile lors de journées de mauvais temps.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

Pourquoi n’achèterions-nous pas le Wrangler Rubicon 4xe 2021? Qu’est-ce que nous n’avons pas aimé? Les pneus tout-terrain offrent une conduite ordinaire sur les routes pavées, surtout à plus haute vitesse. Le système de régénération ou de maintien de la batterie ne semble pas recharger la batterie rapidement; nous n’avons vu ce système fonctionner que sur des chemins ondulés. Le groupe motopropulseur hybride est parfois saccadé, tandis que le groupe motopropulseur électrique est assez bruyant.

Photo by Vince P. Szigeti

Jeep nous a prêté ce véhicule pour une semaine en tant que véhicule de presse. Nous ne sommes pas affiliés à Stellantis Canada. Ce texte est le produit de notre opinion à propos de ce véhicule.  

 Alain Kuhn Von Kuhnenfeld collaborateur

Pour en voir plus aller visiter la page de notre collaborateur https://www.drivingfunandfamilycarreviews.com/blog              

Salon Du Overland 2021 une première édition réussi.

Le Salon du Overland – par David Drouin

Alors que les gens accourent ce genre d’événement très attendu qui se déroule aux États-Unis, j’ai eu l’impression qu’ici, les amateurs d’Overland contemplaient cette initiative avec dubitation.

Hein, un Salon du Overland ici au Québec ?

Qu’à cela ne tienne, ce salon a bel et bien eu lieu la fin de semaine du 17 au 19 septembre à Notre-Dame-du-Mont-Carmel, à environ 25 minutes au nord de Trois-Rivières. L’organisateur, Patrick Trahan a proposé cet événement sur un site lui appartenant qui est en fait une ancienne station de ski.

La température aidant, outre un court épisode de pluie, c’est sous le soleil que 212 participants et 13 exposants se sont réunis pour cette longue fin de semaine.

Les exposants présents pour ce premier rendez-vous étaient tous liés de plus ou moins à l’overland. Il y avait des exposants qui offraient des produits liés à la motorisation, d’esthétique, de système de panneaux solaires. Aussi sur place, d’autres kiosques liés à l’overland dont un commerçant d’équipement auxiliaire, un importateur de véhicules JDM et ainsi qu’un exposant qui offre des voyages préorganisés en Afrique. Il y avait aussi la présence remarquée de 2 joueurs significatifs dans le domaine de l’overland au Québec en la présence d’un fabricant renommé de remorques d’expédition ainsi que d’équipement connexe et un commanditaire majeur qui offre désormais des tentes de toit en aluminium.

De plus, un concessionnaire local (et important commanditaire) était aussi sur place afin de présenter 2 véhicules 4×4 de 2021.  Ceux-ci pouvaient être testés dans un sentier aménagé pour l’occasion. Ce même sentier de 6km était aussi à la disposition des participants et, quoique de difficulté modeste, nous conduisait tout en haut de la montagne afin d’admirer le panorama. De là-haut, on pouvait facilement voir le pont Laviolette situé à Trois-Rivières, 22km plus loin.

Lors de cette première mouture, l’horaire des activités pour les participants était tout de même fort agréable et pertinent. Les gens étaient invités à écouter des récits de voyage ainsi qu’une présentation sur l’organisation de voyage. La fin de semaine était aussi ponctuée d’ateliers offerts par des volontaires compétents. Cela a sans l’ombre d’un doute permis à ce rendez-vous québécois de l’overland d’augmenter en pertinence.

Au menu, un atelier d’utilisation d’équipement de navigation, un de démystification de panneaux solaires (offert par un exposant sur place), une présentation sur les systèmes électriques en overland ainsi que 2 ateliers de désenlisement/conduite dans le sable et 2 ateliers sur la bonne utilisation d’un treuil. Ces ateliers furent très appréciés.

Quoique loin de l’overland, il y eut aussi quelques démonstrations d’un Buggy 4×4 appartenant un exposant sur place. Dans un bruit infernal, à plusieurs reprises, le buggy a littéralement mangé la pente sablonneuse de la montagne.

Il est aussi pertinent de mentionner que les participants pouvaient camper sur place puisque les lieux étaient aménagés en conséquence. C’est ainsi que de nombreux véhicules de toutes catégories étaient présents. Plusieurs modèles pouvaient être contemplés. Certain populaire et commun alors que d’autre, rare, voir, unique. Leur aménagement et équipement étaient tous des plus variés les uns des autres.

Nombreux sont ceux qui ont circulé parmi ces véhicules. Beaucoup d’échanges ont eux lieu et de nombreuses photos ont été prises. Alors que certains font des expéditions depuis de nombreuses années dans des lieux reculés et isolés, d’autres posaient questions, sinon, s’attardaient à écouter conseils et recommandations. 

Le samedi en fin d’après-midi, alors que plusieurs profitaient de la présence d’un Food-truck, il y a eu un tirage d’équipements et de menus objets offerts gracieusement par des commanditaires et exposant lors d’un 5 à 7 commandité par une micro-brasserie locale.

Tout comme le vendredi soir, le 5 à 7 s’en fut suivi par un grand feu de joie accompagné d’une musique.

C’est ainsi que la première édition du Salon de l’overland s’est tenue. Ce fut une réussite et cela présage d’autres années ou le nombre d’exposants, sans doute, augmentera tout autant que la quantité de participants.

Il est agréable de croire que cet événement pourrait devenir une référence au Québec, sans doute, puis au Canada et pourquoi pas, pour le nord-est de l’Amérique du Nord.

Il suffit de souhaiter voir le nombre de participants augmenter afin d’attirer d’autres exposants majeurs qui n’hésitent déjà plus à participer à ce type d’événement aux États-Unis.

David Drouin collaborateur 4x4setupMagazine

Hommage à Sandra et Gaétan


Ces temps-ci j’ai le cœur gros, j’ai le cœur gros quand je constate que la communauté du 4×4
vieillit. Pas parce que je n’aime pas la relève, au contraire, mais plutôt parce que mes chums se
retirent de la vie extrême qu’est le 4×4.

Aujourd’hui c’est mon ami Gaétan Berger qui se retire
suite à la vente de son Truggy (St-Eu Racing). Pour un vieux comme moi (lol) c’est un coup dur.
Vous savez, je suis très proche de Sandra et Gaétan. Je passe le nouvel an chez eux, je passe mes vacances chez eux, je passe tout le temps que je peux chez eux malgré les 550 km qui nous
séparent. Et à chaque fois je suis accueilli comme un membre de la famille. Cette famille Berger
au grand cœur. Je ne pouvais pas passer à côté d’un changement de vie aussi important. Avoir
un 4×4 c’est demandant en temps et en argent. Faire des compétitions c’est encore pire pour
arriver à nos fins dans les délais prévus. On en passe du temps dans le garage et un moment
donné c’est rendu un style de vie. On ne s’en rend même plus compte, on ne se demande pas
ce qu’on fait en fin de semaine, on travail dans le garage. Imaginez si en plus, pour l’amour du
sport, il vous viendrait l’idée d’organiser une compétition ! Pa n’importe lequel,

LA COMPÉTITION.


En 2003 je reçois un appel d’un gars de St-Eugene de Ladrière, il s’appelle Gaétan. Je crois que
c’est la première fois que je parle avec un gars qui a un accent! Je comprends qu’il veut que
« jaille faire une raille avec ma reguine pour la hawler dans vase et din roches » et me dit qu’il
veut organiser une compétition de 4×4 comme aux USA et me demande si je serais intéressé !
Wow c’est sûr que ça m’intéresse que je lui ai dit. Il faut savoir que Gaétan n’a qu’une parole. Il
fait ce qu’il dit. En 2004 était la première édition du QUÉBEC TOP 4X4.

Je ne peux être sûr à
100% mais en 2004 c’était à ma connaissance la première compétition de 4×4 à obstacle au
Québec. Sandra de son coté s’occupait de……… de tellement de choses que c’est difficile à
énumérer. Ceux qui la connaisse savent que Sandra s’est impliquée partout. Commanditaires,
bouffe, inscriptions des pilotes etc. C’est simple, tu entrais sur le site, tu payais ton entrée à
Sandra, tu te stationnais où Sandra te disait, elle venait te voir pour te dire que c’est à ton tour
d’aller sur la piste, elle était au départ ainsi qu’à l’arrivée avec une caisse de bière qu’elle mettait
sur tes genoux. Et en plus, elle trouvait le temps de vendre des moitiés moitiés dans les
estrades, traiter les bobos et insolations des spectateurs et des pilotes et à la fin de la journée
c’est elle qui te servait ton souper derrière le comptoir dans le relais de skidoo, ha ha ha! Gaétan
courrait partout pour gérer l’événement, la réglementation, le tracé de la course, le pointage,
l’inspection des véhicules, les pièces de 4×4 pour dépanner les coureurs et les bidon d’essence en
passant par les commanditaires à solliciter, la remise des bourses et tellement d’autre choses.


Mais attention, ils n’étaient pas seuls à faire tout ça, il y avait une équipe avec eux que j’adore.
Une gang de chum de trails qui sont devenu un support à ce merveilleux événement du Québec
top 4×4. Une gang de passionnés, je pense à Mike, J-F, Joel, Pascal, Guy, Martin, et tous les autres
que j’oublie. Il y a une chimie dans cette région, si bien que j’ai décidé d’en faire mon futur lieu de
retraite.
À mes yeux Sandra et Gaétan ainsi que la gang du Québec Top 4×4 mérite une ovation, un
hommage, une magnifique reconnaissance pour avoir semé la graine qui a rendu ce sport aussi
intense et aussi spectaculaire qu’on le connaît. Peut-être vous vous demander mais qu’est-ce qu’il a Yan aujourd’hui…… Yan a le cœur gros.
Gaétan ne coursera plus, Broncozor se prépare aussi mentalement à arrêter les compétitions et
peut-être y en a-t-il d’autre qui y pense ? Sachez que j’aurai le cœur gros . Mes vieux
premiers amis. Pierre Fortin, Pascal 1234567890, Man Man, Norm 4X toy, Pat Richard,
Maiden, Alex Dumont, BadToy, Unimog, Affreux Orange, et j’en oublie. S’il y avait un temple de
la renommée vous auriez une place c’est sûr. Aujourd’hui j’ai le cœur gros mais ne vous en faites
pas, car en fin de semaine j’ai fait du motocross avec Man Man et 4xToy . Les 18 derniers
dimanches Broncozor nous a invité à souper (lol) (tu ne me nourris pas juste dans les compétitions
hahaha) et vendredi je m’en vais chez Sandra et Gaétan pour mes vacances avec Boncozor et
Dream Machine .
Merci pour tout Sandra et Gaétan (St-Eu Racing) ainsi qu’à toute la gang du club.
Yanick Ouellet
Y-TOUGH

MONSTER VALVES

On trail days, we air down our tires to increase the footprint on the surface and, therefore, get extra traction. It is a two-step process as airing down implies airing back up after the trail. There are several good tire inflation systems out there, such as Power Tank-style tanks, compressors, modified air conditioning compressors, or the very popular and famous « pass me your Power Tank, mine is empty! » No matter what you use, it will be limited to the amount of air your valve can let in given its diameter.

You have a Tinder date or have promised your partner that you would be back early… Well, Monster Valves can save you a few seconds!

Monster Valves are oversized aluminum valve stems. Their large size allows for a greater volume of air per second to pass through, thus saving you time – if your inflation system can supply, of course. According to the manufacturer Power Tank, it is possible to air up a 40 x 13.50 tire up 35 psi in less than 30 seconds, and air up that same tire in 50-60 seconds with an efficient inflation system. As you can see in the picture below, the concept is that all components are oversized to let more air in (or out). You can also notice the core tool on the cap to remove the valve core for a much higher in/out airflow – instead of using your keys!

The installation is relatively easy. When you order your kit, you get the necessary information on drill and tap sizes. The installation consists of two simple steps: marking and drilling the new hole, then tapping threads that will allow screwing the new valve stem in place.

Before drilling your wheel, it is good to know that the new valve stems are bigger, and if you have beadlocks, it will be difficult or even impossible to inflate the tires with your standard tire inflator.

You will need an elbow adapter that will allow you to reach the valve. Some people prefer to drill out the preexisting valve stem hole, but others prefer to drill a new hole and keep the original valve stem. The latter’s advantage allows you to still fill your tires up the good old way if you happen to forget your adapter.

So, the fairly simple installation and benefits for inflating/deflating your tires (which are often oversized, too) make this system a good candidate for a little weekend project on your rig!

HOW TO CHOOSE A ROOF TENT ?

Let’s start at the beginning. Why a roof top tent?

The main advantage of a RTT or Roof Top Tent, is that it always has a flat and comfortable underside, unlike a traditional tent where you have to carefully choose the ground where the tent will be set up; Away from roots rocks and away from cold/wet ground. In some places, the tent should be out of reach from dangerous animals.

A Roof Top Tent is a luxury that brings a lot of comfort.

While it is relatively new to the North American market, the popularity of this concept has been widespread in Europe for several decades. The first one appeared in the 1930s in Western Europe.

The Autohome, a very popular concept in Italy, was among the first to be imported here. In operation since 1958, Autohome is possibly the oldest of the current manufacturers. In recent years, competitors have multiplied, offering several levels of quality, innovative options and a wide range of tent classes exist.

The foldable and flexible RTTs, and the rigid RTTs. There are some rare models that are a hybrid between the two concepts.

The soft ones usually fold in half and are covered with a protective canvas for transport, these models range in prices.

The advantages of soft tents:

-Space occupied in transport position is half the area of the tent size

-Easier storage due to smaller size when in off-season storage

Option to have an additional section hanging under the extended part, providing an enclosed space under the platform and also the advantage of being able to access the tent dry when it rains

This type of RTT is generally more affordable than rigid RTTs

Disadvantages of soft tents:

-Often more fragile because of the frames and more susceptible to abrasion between the canvas and its frames

-More susceptible to water leaks and require more care after a rain

-Greater difficulty to deploy the tent in sub-zero temperatures

-Low storage capacity inside the closed tent

-Slower to deploy, more effort to pack up

Hardtop tents are generally made of a hard shell that opens by connecting the two parts with fabric. Most are made of fiberglass, some of aluminum and rarely carbon fiber.

The advantages of rigid tents:

-Super fast set up (usually less than 15 seconds)

-strong durability

-Large interior storage; bed does not have to be re-made

-Better heat retention potential

-Generally thicker and firmer mattress (does not have to be folded for storage)

-Good weather resistance

Disadvantages of rigid tents:

-Space occupied is often double that of soft tents

-Cost of acquisition much higher

 -Impossibility to have additional sections within the tent, access to the tent during bad weather is therefore more difficult

With many products these days, the price is often a reference of the quality of the product, but the gain in benefits is in diminishing returns. That is, the difference between a $1000 RTT and a $2000 one is much greater than between a $4000 tent and a $5000 one.

In the case of roof top tents, two factors are primarily affected.

The first and most obvious is the choice of materials:

The fabric used will be more or less weather resistant. The fabric can be naturally water resistant while others require regular treatment. The top of the range is waterproof; water is not blocked during penetration; it beads on the surface and does not enter the material. The advantage is that the tent can be closed wet without the risk of mildew. High-end textiles are also more resistant to abrasion and stains.

Not all zippers are of equal quality. They are often very long closures exposed to the elements. Repair work on a RTT with specialized fabrics can be extremely expensive, not to mention the difficulty of finding a specialist who can make the repair.

The floor of soft tents can be made of composite materials or plywood. The weight and durability of composites are better.

The thickness of the fiberglass in the tents varies from one model to another; greater the thickness, the better the resistance to cracking. There are also several levels of quality in the fiber fabrics used in the manufacturing process of fiberglass products.

The second major factor affecting price is attention to detail and the amount of detail in the design:

-Interior storage pockets

-Waterproof exterior shoe pockets

-Quality of the ladder

-Solar lights

-Solar powered fan

-Details to facilitate opening and closing (air expeller, ropes, elastics)

-Canopy to protect openings

-Number of openings

-Load capacity on the roof of the tent (e.g., kayak or bicycle rack)

The installation of an RTT requires special attention. It is a very heavy element for the roof load capacity of many vehicles. It is important to check the manufacturer’s specifications, while considering the weight of the tent and the people who will sleep in it. For example, a four-person tent will easily hold 600lbs in this case some quality loading poles are necessary, and this is an important element to consider in the purchase cost. Tents are more often than not made overseas, specifically in China. As in many areas, the Chinese supply is highly variable. Contrary to popular belief, the level of quality depends more on what the designer orders than where it is manufactured. Quality control on an assembly line is a paid service that is part of the unit price of the product when ordered by a Canadian, American or other designer. This is true no matter where it is manufactured.

Of the four Canadian manufacturers, Treeline Outdoors and Burmis Oudoors are from Alberta and GoXplore is from Quebec. These manufacturers all offer several levels of quality and detail in their tent models. All three seem to have multiple customers satisfied enough to proclaim it publicly.

http://treelineoutdoors.com/

: http://www.goxplore.ca/

Burmis Outdoors https://burmisoutdoor.com/

Since the publication of the article, another manufacturer has been identified;

Wild Coast Tents, Nouvelle Écosse: https://wildcoasttents.com/

Photo Credit: David Drouin

Vincent Bouchard, Overland Québec Administrator, Collaborator 4x4SetupMagazine

70 000 KM LATER IN A 4X4…

When we say to our partner « I’m going for a ride in my 4×4, » it means that we do not always know what time or even what day we are coming back. For Marc Mellet, going for a ride sometimes means driving 70 000 km and crossing 25 countries for 2 years. I’d like to tell you about this adventure, which put a 4×4 to the test in the true sense of the word.

Prior to this long journey, Marc had already tried, 7 years earlier, to reach Kamtchatka, a 1250-kilometre-long volcanic peninsula located in the Russian Far East which juts out into the Pacific Ocean. However, an accident (barrel roll) near the town of Magadan prevented him from carrying out his project. As Marc does not usually give up his goals, he set up a new travel plan to reach the volcanic peninsula. About two years before the big departure date, he met Jeanne-Sarah Savart who became his travel partner as well as the writer of the book which tells the story of their trip.

The two enthusiasts decided to begin their adventure in a Land Cruiser BJ75. They left in 2012 and went through Europe, Turkey, the Caucasus, Central Asia, Mongolia, Russia, and Japan.

Such journeys should not be undertaken with just any vehicle. The Land Cruiser was bought in 2001 for €6000 (Can$8954 today) with 270 000 km on the odometer. It had to undergo several modifications to accomplish its heavy task two years later. When the adventure started, the odometer already indicated 434 435 km, and 70 000 km were added with the journey.

Engine: Replacing the engine was the first major transformation. The original 3.4-litre 4-cylinder diesel engine (a 3b) only produced 90 hp, which was insufficient for the trip. It was replaced by a more modern Toyota engine from an HDJ80, a 12-valve 4.2-litre turbo diesel (1HDT) boosting the power to almost 170 hp. This modification forced Marc to also change the engine mounts, radiator, alternator, air filter, etc.

Tires: Michelin YZL 255/100-16 were chosen, and Toyo Open Country M/T 265/75-16 were chosen for the snowy part of the trip.

Suspension: Marc fitted two OME gas shocks to each wheel, as well as King Springs HD OME HHD rear leaf springs.

Fuel tanks: The vehicle was equipped with three tanks for a long range: the 90-litre original tank, a 95-litre Long Range Automotive central tank, and a 150-litre tank located at the rear. It may seem a lot, but it was necessary for a worry-free adventure.

Money: One of the first things, of course, that comes to mind when we hear about such a project, how much does it cost? In their case, they told me that they estimated their budget at €1200 per month, or about Can$1791. This amount included the required visas, food, some repairs, and fuel which accounted for half of the budget. They received money from a French off-road magazine. In exchange, Jeanne-Sarah had to write 7 article pages every month about their trip. They were also lucky enough to have a major sponsorship from Euro4x4parts which helped a lot by sending hundreds of spare parts during the trip.

I asked them what their typical day looked like. Here is their response: “Discovery and the unexpected have been our daily lot during these two years. There was no definite plan. Apart from visa constraints, we made our way at random and according to meetings. We ended up not driving much as we preferred to spend a few days at a place to enjoy it or its people. Our vehicle allows us to bivouac anywhere and be self-sufficient in nature or in the city. We slept mainly in our 4×4 or with the locals who invited us. We must say that our Land Cruiser is an incredible socializing tool. It draws attention and questions, and it allows us to meet people”.

“We have traveled in all seasons. There were periods of severe cold weather or very hot weather. In Siberia in winter, our heater, which had been damaged when we overturned the truck a few months earlier, refused to work when it was -40 °C. Fortunately, our duvets are designed for very low temperatures, and we slept with our shapkas on our head. In the end, the hardest part was not so much resisting the cold than managing our water supply. An hour to thaw a bottle every morning; enough to die of thirst in front of a large ice cube”.

Every day brought something new and exciting, but nothing could parallel the adrenaline rush that the adventurers had during the crossing of Lake Baikal. Located in southern Siberia, in eastern Russia, it is the largest reservoir of liquid freshwater on Earth’s surface, approximately 23 500 cubic km. The water is unusually transparent and clear, and one can see up to 40 metres deep. The lake is sometimes nicknamed the Pearl of Siberia. The adventurers drove some 400 kilometres on the frozen lake, sometimes in the middle of a storm, avoiding crevasses. They never lost sight of the fact that the ice could give way at any time. There, help is so far away that by the time it would have taken to arrive, they would have had time to turn into Mr. Freeze.

It was precisely the adrenaline and all the adventures that convinced them to write a book. It was no longer a simple journey but an adventure that they wanted to share with the rest of the world. Marc, who is a professional photographer, was able to bring a very personal touch, which we can admire in the book. There is also a book about Marc’s first trip: Davai Kamtchatka.

I also asked them about their next project. They already had a lot of ideas in mind. But first, they had to repair the Land Cruiser since it had suffered a bit on the last trip. A film about their adventure was not excluded from the possibilities. As for next destinations, they were thinking about Iceland and Africa.

Website link: https://www.facebook.com/lemondepourpassager/

Deflating tires on trail.

While for some, this aspect of our passion is clear and simple, for others who are new to our sport, it raises several questions.

First of all, what is the advantage of deflating our tires during our trail rides? Well, it’s pretty simple, loosening the air will greatly increase the size of your footprint. Therefore, you will have a greater quantity of studs in contact with the ground.

Riding at low pressure on the trail makes a smoother ride, and also helps the tire absorb shock, unlike a tire with a larger volume of air. To a certain extent, this protects you from punctures, because a soft tire will deform around a sharp rock, instead of puncturing while remaining rigid and offering a flat surface.

In my opinion, one of the most important things to consider before deflating is: how are we going to reinflate after the trail. For those who use trailers to transport their 4×4 vehicle, this is not really an issue since they will be able to take care of it back home. For those who will be returning to the trail afterwards, it will be imperative to blow out the tires after the trail for safety reasons. On a hard surface like asphalt, it could be extremely dangerous to ride at very low pressure, main reason is you will have poor handling during turns on a paved road.

So, there are several options for inflation, there is something for everyone and especially for every budget.

-Compressor, there are several compressors on the market, from the small one that plugs into your cigarette lighter to the big one that plugs directly into your vehicle’s power. The small model can help out and many will tell you that it is perfect for them. In many cases it ends up overheating, especially if your tires are oversized… There are also compressors that are plugged directly into the vehicle’s power supply, which is what I personally use. You have to shop around because the prices can be quite high depending on the option you choose. In my case, I opted for a large double ARB model that allows me to inflate and operate air tools when needed on the trail. There are other smaller models from ARB that do the job nicely, as well as several other manufacturers offering different models.

So, an important thing to know when shopping for your compressor, you need to choose the right compressor that will be able to meet the requirements of your trail needs. In doing so you will need to look at several details, but here are two very important ones:

PSI: Pounds per Square Inch, is the pressure generated by the compressor. Kind of like the force at which you blow through a straw. The higher the psi number the more air is compressed by the machine. So, if you want to use your system to run air tools, you need to make sure you have enough psi for the different tools. The required psi will be marked on the tools.

CFM: Cubic Feet per Minute, is the speed of air flow from the compressor. How fast the air is flowing through a straw, if you want to run multiple air tools simultaneously on the same compressor then you need to add up the CFM values of each. This will tell you if your compressor is pushing enough CFM to run all three at the same time.

We are talking about deflating our tires on the trail, but of course the type of terrain will dictate the level of air you need in your vehicle. It is also possible in my case to add a reserve of additional air, which will allow your compressor to blow a little in case of great need.

You can also use a ((Power tank)) a compressed CO2 tank, which allows you to blow your tires in a very efficient and fast way. The only drawback is that you will have to refill it from time to time depending on the size of your tank and the frequency of use.

One of the last options is to modify your air conditioning compressor into an air compressor with a plug for your air hose, this one requires a little more knowledge to do the modifications properly.

So as mentioned, there are several options available to you, but be aware that there are certain criteria that must be observed to help you choose. Price, air flow rate, warranties and ease of installation should be considered. Note that even if you choose the compressor that pushes the most cfm for a much faster inflation, if your tire valves do not allow for a larger air volume your purchase will be limited by those valves.

With this in mind, there is also an option available to you – Monster valves offer a much larger hole circumference than your original valves. The PowerTank company guarantees that with such valves you can blow out a 39.5×13.50 tire at 30 psi in 30 seconds or even reinflate the same tire in 40 to 50 seconds (with the right compressor of course).

This will allow a larger volume of air to pass through the nozzle which will save you a lot of time. Another thing to keep in mind before deflating, lowering the pressure, how low do you go…  One issue that can happen when the tire pressure is too low will be the tire bead will pop off the rim. The best option to avoid this problem is to instal a Beadlock, this system locks the tire in place, with this system you will be able to go as low as 5 psi and even some people ride with around 2 or 3 psi.

For those who don’t have this system, I recommend not to go below 15 psi because you will run into problems on the trail.

In conclusion, deflating your tires when you go out on the trail is a great idea. You just have to choose the right air pressure according to your needs and the capabilities of your tire/wheel setup. Don’t forget to put back the pressure recommended by the manufacturer before going back on the road.

Dave Daneault 4x4setupMagazine

DIESEL VS. GAS ENGINE COMPARISON

DIESEL VS. GAS ENGINE COMPARISON

This time, we’re going to take a look at the pros and cons of diesel vs. gas engines, basic maintenance, and some myths.

One significant advantage of a diesel engine is torque. It’s not for nothing that most heavy vehicles and machinery are either electric, diesel, or a mix of the two, such as trains (a diesel engine runs a generator that supplies electric motors). Another important difference is fuel economy. Yes, diesel fuel is sometimes more expensive than regular gas. And yes, the fuel consumption of a pickup that is not loaded is barely better than a gas one. However, that’s a different story when it is put to work.

The diesel engine is designed to work. It’s much tougher than a comparable gas engine, but there is a drawback. For a long and healthy life, a diesel must warm up and carry loads. There is no better example than heavy trucks. They can drive several hundred thousand kilometres before needing an engine rebuild (the previous owner of my Peterbilt blew up the engine at 1.7 million kilometres). For those currently driving a diesel with a pyrometer (exhaust temperature gauge), it is as low as possible for fuel economy, while the ideal for the engine is approximately 800 F.

People who buy a diesel to look cool and go around the corner will likely have problems with their vehicle in the medium term. The cylinders will glaze (become chrome, and compression will leak). Those with EGR, DPF, or urea systems will get a lighted Christmas tree on the dashboard…

Why were the old diesels hard to start while new ones almost start like gas engines? First, the compression ratio. The old GM’s 6.2L/6.5L, Ford’s 6.9L, the first Ford’s 7.3L, and the VW TDs are all indirect injection (IDI) engines, which means that the injector sends fuel to a prechamber and not directly to the piston. As a result, these old engines had very high compression ratios, between 20 and 22:1, and the injection pressure was on average between 4 and 8000 psi.

Newer common rail diesel engines have compression ratios between 14 and 17:1, making it much easier on the starter, and injection pressure between 28 and 35 000 psi injected directly to the piston. And for those lucky engines, synthetic oil helps a lot with cold starts, which was not popular in the 1980s.

A question that comes up often, I have the choice between two pickups, say a 2018 Silverado 2500HD 4-door 4WD with the same equipment. The 6.0L gasoline engine is $60 000, but it is $72 000 with the Duramax (on GM’s website). I don’t work with it; I just pull my caravan in the summer. Which one should I take? If you intend to keep the pickup and forget the resale value, unless you cross Canada regularly to go camping, the gasoline truck is the logical choice. Why? Like I’ve said, a diesel is made to work hard. If it doesn’t have any loads three seasons out of four, it won’t be happy. In the summer, if you pull your caravan, for example, eight times and drive 600 km round-trip each time, it makes about 5000 km per summer. We are going to make sales figures… The diesel pickup consumes 15 L/100 km at $1.35/L, so it costs $20.75 for 100 km and $1012 for the 5000 km of camping. The gas pickup consumes 25 L/100 km at $1.35/L, so it costs $33.75 for 100 km and $1687 for the same 5000 km. You save about $675 per year. Sounds cool, but you paid $12 000 more when you purchased your truck. That means if you do 5000 km of camping per year, it will take you almost 18 years to start making money on your $12 000. Every time I say that I kind of feel like I’ve burst people’s bubble. Of course, the numbers vary, oil prices fluctuate, dealers sometimes have deals on specific models, but basically, you understand the idea: to make your diesel truck cost-effective, you have to work with it.

On the maintenance side, some say a diesel engine requires more maintenance than a gas one… Apart from the fuel filter once a year (ideally in the fall to have a clean filter without water before winter), the rest is the same. Keep the air filter clean and change the oil. True, it costs more. It’s not more maintenance, but it’s more expensive because it takes on average 10 to 15 liters of oil for a pickup, and some models have more expensive filters. Besides that, there is nothing more to do.

Some myths… A diesel engine doesn’t start in winter; it just makes black smoke, and it’s not efficient. If we go back to the 1980s and early 1990s, it was pretty much like that. But as I’ve said, engines have been improved a lot since. A modern diesel engine in good order can easily start at -20 without a problem. Stock diesels with an emission control system (so no smoke) are offered with almost 400 horsepower and some exceed 900 pound-feet of torque.

In the next article: programmers, gains, breakages, manufacturer’s guarantees, the legal side…

Francois Vézina chroniqueur 4x4setup magazine

Un Jeep Tj 1997 avec un moteur Tesla …

Nous aimons beaucoup vous présenter des projets hors du commun au magazine. Cette semaine nous en avons un en effet très spécial… un jeep/Tesla… Nous sommes tombés sur ce véhicule complètement par hasard sur le web, et qu’on aime ou pas la direction que prend la technologie, elle nous apporte de plus en plus vers l’électrification de notre passion. Cette nouvelle technologie n’intéresse pas tous les passionnées de hors route, mais pour certain c’est autre chose.

C’est le cas de Bill Bayer le propriétaire et concepteur du Jeep/Tesla. Nous lui avons demandé de nous parler un peu de son projet.

BILL : J’ai grandi dans le Missouri, mon enfance était partagée entre le vélo et la fabrication d’objets avec mes blocs Lego. À l’époque j’avais même soumis une idée de modèle à Lego, qui a été refusée, la compagnie m’a quand meme envoyé comme cadeau une affiche d’une navette spatiale. Aux études, j’ai complété un bac en mécanique automobile. J’ai ensuite poursuivi mes études en technologie automobile au Rankin Technical College. Mais je n’ai malheureusement pas trouvé de travail dans ce même domaine.

Quelques années plus tard, j’ai décidé de joindre l’armée de l’air. J’ai servi mes 4 premières années en Angleterre à travailler sur les avions de chasse F-15E. Après avoir été déployé en Afghanistan j’ai découvert un site web appelé Electric Vehicle Televison. Le cerveau de l’entreprise était un homme aujourd’hui décédé, Jack Rickard. Il avait converti une réplique d’une Porsche Speedster de 1969 en utilisant des piles au phosphate de lithium. Sa philosophie était la suivante : si un gros homme portant des chaussures jaunes et tombant ivre mort peut construire une voiture qui n’utilise pas d’essence et peut parcourir 100 km sur une charge, pourquoi les constructeurs automobiles ne le pourraient-ils pas ?

Chris Paine a posé cette même question dans son merveilleux documentaire « Who Killed the Electric Car« . Jack Rickard a également suggéré qu’il suffisait d’aller dans son garage, de balayer un espace de la taille d’une voiture et d’aller changer le monde ! J’ai pris ce défi très au sérieux. Je ne peux pas changer la politique, je ne peux pas arrêter les guerres pour le pétrole et la sécurité énergétique, mais je peux réduire ou éliminer ma dépendance à leur égard.

Rokon 1969

Je suis revenu d’Afghanistan en homme changé. Quelques années plus tard, j’étais stationné dans le New Jersey où la construction de mon EV a commencé. Ma première conversion, pour me mettre dans le bain, était un Rokon 1969 que j’avais récupéré en Alaska. À l’origine, il avait un affreux moteur à deux temps de 125 cm3. Il était difficile à démarrer, pas très puissant, sentait mauvais et était bruyant. Je l’ai remplacé par un moteur DC 5hp et une batterie Lithium Iron phosphate 48 volts. (Première photo). C’était un énorme succès. Mon projet suivant était un camion Ford Ranger de 1994. Je l’ai converti en utilisant un moteur à induction AC de HPEVS et une batterie au lithium phosphate de fer de 144 volts. (Deuxième photo) Ce fut également un grand succès. Je l’ai emmené à toutes les expositions de voitures que j’ai pu trouver pendant les 5 années suivantes. J’ai découvert que non seulement je pouvais arrêter d’acheter du pétrole, mais que je pouvais aussi faire connaître les VE et leur supériorité sur les véhicules à essence ou diesel.

Ce n’est pas seulement qu’ils n’utilisent pas de produits pétroliers et qu’ils sont sans doute meilleurs pour l’environnement. Les VE sont tout simplement MEILLEURES ! Ils sont simples, élégants, efficaces, silencieux, doux, rapides et amusants à conduire. De plus, si vous entrez dans votre garage pour en fabriquer un, c’est absolument la chose la plus satisfaisante que vous puissiez faire avec votre temps et votre argent. Ce n’est pas un moyen d’économiser de l’argent. Une conversion coûtera au minimum 15 000 $ (un peu moins que ce que j’ai mis dans la Ranger), jusqu’à plus de 50 000 $ (ce que j’ai dans la Jeep) et plus. Le délai de récupération est de 10 à 20 ans. Mais quel est le délai de récupération de votre canapé ou de votre téléviseur grand écran ? Ce n’est pas une question d’argent.

VW DoppelKabine

Je vais de l’avant. J’ai pris ma retraite de l’armée de l’air et j’ai déménagé à Cape Girardeau, dans le Missouri, où j’ai trouvé un emploi chez EVTV ! J’ai travaillé avec Jack pendant un peu plus d’un an. J’ai terminé quelques conversions qu’ils avaient commencées et j’ai fait une conversion complète d’une VW DoppelKabine « The Doka » de 1992 en utilisant un moteur Tesla. À l’époque, c’était l’une des premières conversions utilisant un moteur Tesla. (Troisième photo de moi et Jack) Il y a une excellente vidéo de la Doka. Cherchez Smoka Doka sur YouTube.

Un gallon d’essence contient environ 34 kWh d’énergie. C’est 13x PLUS d’énergie utilisée pour faire la même quantité de travail. 13 fois plus d’énergie gaspillée. Pour la même quantité d’énergie qu’un gallon d’essence, je pourrais tondre mon jardin entier pendant tout un été ! C’est obscène. Tout le monde a une tondeuse. Tout le monde gaspille autant d’énergie. C’est exactement ce que je veux dire quand je dis que ce n’est pas une question d’argent. Les automobiles ne sont pas si mauvaises. Elles ne gaspillent que 4 fois plus d’énergie qu’un véhicule électrique.

Maintenant la Jeep.

Je l’ai construite comme une conversion EV sans compromis. J’ai toujours aimé les Jeeps. Il a commencé comme un stock 1997 Jeep TJ avec un moteur 2,5 L et une transmission 5 vitesses. J’ai tout modifié sur elle. La seule chose que je n’ai pas vraiment touchée est la tub de carrosserie. Ce n’est pas tout à fait vrai. J’ai transformé le hayon arrière pivotant en hayon basculant. La suspension est un kit long arm de IronRockOffRoad. Il faut couper presque tous les supports de suspension d’usine du châssis et des essieux et boulonner une structure centrale où les nouveaux bras de suspension sont montés.

Un « truss » est soudé à l’essieu arrière pour les bras supérieurs. J’ai également installé un kit de direction « over-the-knuckle ». Je l’ai fait autant pour sa robustesse que pour les bras de direction d’origine qui semblaient ridicules avec la nouvelle suspension musclée. J’ai chagé les ratios des différentiels à 3.07:1, installé des essieux chromoly, installé un « lunchbox locker » dans le différentiel arrière, installé un kit de frein à disque arrière et une mise à niveau de disque à l’avant. Ironiquement, l’amélioration du freinage est en grande partie inutile, car les VE ont un freinage par régénération et les freins normaux sont rarement utilisés ! À partir de là, j’ai commencé à fabriquer les supports pour le moteur Tesla. J’utilise une unité de transmission arrière provenant d’une Model S Performance accidentée. Le DU remplace le moteur, la transmission et la boîte de transfert. Il a jusqu’à 500hp et 425lbft de couple au moteur. J’ai remplacé les engrenages d’usine 9.38:1 dans l’unité de transmission par des engrenages 4.5:1. Ceux-ci, combinés avec les engrenages 3.07:1 du différentiel, me donnent un rapport final de 13.8:1. Cela revient à être en 1ère vitesse tout le temps. Vous pouvez vous en tirer, car le moteur Tesla tourne jusqu’à 16 000 tr/min ! Je devrais avoir une vitesse de pointe d’environ 100 MPH et un temps de 0-60 d’environ 5 secondes. Le DU pèse 300lb. Le 4 cylindres, le 5 vitesses et la boîte de transfert pèsent 660 livres. La propulsion électrique est beaucoup plus dense en puissance que la combustion interne. J’utilise une batterie complète de 90 kWh provenant d’une Tesla Model S ou Model X. Elle se compose de 16 modules de 24 volts qui pèsent chacun un peu plus de 50 livres.

Combinée avec les supports de batterie, la batterie ajoute plus de 1000lb à la Jeep. 90kWh est équivalent à 2,6 gallons d’essence. 2,6 gallons d’essence pèseraient environ 20lb. Ce que j’ai perdu en poids dans le moteur, je l’ai regagné et plus encore dans la batterie. L’essence est environ 50 fois plus dense en énergie que les batteries au lithium. J’ai commandé des arbres de transmission sur mesure chez Tom Woods Driveline. Ils ont amélioré les joints universels à des 1350. J’utilise un chargeur de batterie de 6,6 kW qui comporte un chargeur DCDC de 1,8 kW. Un chargeur DCDC change la tension du pack de 400V en 12V pour les choses normales de la voiture. 1.8kW est à peu près la même chose qu’un alternateur de 140amp, mais beaucoup plus efficace. Saviez-vous que les alternateurs ne sont efficaces au mieux qu’à 50% ? Donc, un alternateur de 140 ampères est en fait un alternateur de 280 ampères, sauf que 140 ampères sont gaspillés en chaleur ! C’est fou. La charge se fait par une prise standard J1772. La même que celle que vous pourriez voir dans une station de recharge à l’extérieur d’un hôtel ou autre. La Jeep ne sera pas compatible avec le réseau Supercharge de Tesla.

Les gens demandent toujours combien de temps il faut pour recharger. Eh bien, cela dépend. Est-ce que j’ai épuisé le pack au point d’avoir besoin d’une dépanneuse pour rentrer chez moi ? Eh bien, dans ce cas, il faudra environ 13 heures. La vraie réponse est que je ne sais pas et que je m’en moque ! Pourquoi ? Disons que je vais au travail, puis au magasin et que je rentre à la maison. Cela représente environ 80 km. Cela utilisera environ 20kWh sur mon pack. Il faudrait 3 heures pour la charger. La raison pour laquelle je ne m’en préoccupe pas est que je la branche quand je rentre à la maison et que je l’oublie. Je rentre, je regarde la télé, je mange et je vais me coucher. Le matin, elle est pleine. A-t-il cessé de se recharger à 23 heures ? Ou à 1 heure du matin ou quelque part entre les deux ? Je ne sais pas. Je dirais que c’est la chose la plus difficile à comprendre pour les propriétaires de véhicules non électriques. On ne vide jamais la batterie… JAMAIS ! Les gens demanderont ce qui se passe si vous vous rendez à un endroit « X » et que vous n’avez plus de batterie ? C’est comme si vous demandiez ce qui se passerait si vous tombiez en panne d’essence dans votre voiture à essence, que la station-service la plus proche était à 160 km et qu’il n’y avait pas de réception de téléphone cellulaire ? Est-ce que cela pourrait arriver ? Bien sûr. Mais est-ce que cela arrivera un jour ? Pas du tout. Si vous êtes sur le point de conduire votre voiture sur un tronçon de route de 200 miles de long et que vous savez qu’il n’y a pas de station-service, allez-vous commencer ce voyage sans regarder votre jauge de carburant ? Le ferez-vous sans faire le plein avant de partir ? Bien sûr que non ! C’est la même chose avec les véhicules électriques. Chaque matin, la Jeep sera pleine. Chaque matin, j’aurai une autonomie de 300 km. Je peux soit conduire 100 miles dans une direction et revenir, soit faire 5 voyages de 20 miles, soit conduire 10 miles et la brancher pour le reste de la journée. Le lendemain matin, elle sera pleine.

Les plans futurs consistent à remplacer les essieux d’usine par des essieux d’une tonne provenant d’un camion de grande taille. Tant que je n’aurai pas fait cela, je ne pourrai pas exploiter toute la puissance du moteur Tesla. Les différentiels des essieux d’usine ne sont pas conçus pour supporter un tel couple.

À ce jour, j’essaie toujours de régler tous les paramètres du moteur pour qu’il se comporte comme je le souhaite. Pensez-y comme à la programmation d’un système d’injection de carburant. Si vous vous trompez un peu dans une courbe, vous obtiendrez de très mauvaises performances et vous risquez d’endommager le moteur. Même chose avec un moteur électrique. Une fois que tout cela est réglé, j’ai un système stéréo de 900 watts à installer avec un subwoofer de 10 pouces. Je me dis que si l’on doit avoir un véhicule silencieux, autant avoir une chaîne stéréo puissante !

Pour en savoir plus voila la chaine YouTube du projet: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRlUpaTM-jNI8yRR_oafVUA

Dave Daneault 4x4setupMagazine

Jeep Tj 1997 with a Tesla engine …

We love to present you unusual projects at the magazine. This week we have a very special one indeed… a jeep/Tesla… We came across this vehicle completely by chance on the web, and whether we like it or not the direction that technology is taking us more and more towards the electrification of our passion. Not all off-road enthusiasts are interested in this new technology, but for some it’s something else.
This is the case for Bill Bayer, the owner and designer of the Jeep/Tesla. We asked him to tell us a little about his project.

I grew up in Missouri dividing all of my kid-time between riding my bike and making stuff with Lego’s.  I even submitted an idea for a model once.  I received a very nice rejection letter and a fantastic poster of a Lego Space Shuttle.  In high school I took automotive mechanic vocational classes my junior and senior year.  After graduation I went to Rankin Technical College for Automotive Technology.  I never did get a professional job as a car mechanic though. 

A few years after graduating college I joined the Air Force.  I served the first four years in England as a Tactical Fighter Maintainer on the F-15E.  For reason that escape me now, I voluntarily cross-trained into Weather Forecasting.  I did not like it at all but finished out my service retiring after 20 years.  While in the Air Force, I was deployed to Afghanistan.  There I began to question military politics and motivations.  Why do we fight?  It didn’t take long to determine that most of the time the reason is Oil.  This made me very angry but what could I do?  One day after giving a weather briefing to the deployed commander, I discovered a website called Electric Vehicle Television (EVTV.me).  The brains of the business was a now deceased man named Jack Rickard.  He converted a 1969 Porsche Speedster replica using Lithium Phosphate battery cells.  His philosophy was that if a fat man wearing yellow shoes falling down drunk can build a car that uses no gasoline and can travel 100mi on a charge why can’t car manufacturers? 

Chris Paine proposed this very question in his wonderful documentary « Who Killed the Electric Car. »  Jack Rickard also suggested that all a person has to do is go out to his garage, sweep out a spot roughly the size of a car and go change the world!  I took this challenger very seriously.  I can’t change politics, I can’t stop wars over oil and energy security but I can reduce or eliminate my dependence on them.

I returned from Afghanistan a changed man.  A few years later I was stationed in New Jersey where my EV building began.  My first conversion to kind of get my feet wet was a 1969 Rokon that I picked up when I was in Alaska.  It originally had an awful 125cc two-stroke engine.  It was hard to start, not very powerful, smelled terrible and was noisy. I replaced it with a 5hp DC motor and a 48 volt Lithium Iron Phosphate battery.  (first picture).  It was a huge success.  My next project was a 1994 Ford Ranger truck.  I converted it using an AC induction motor from HPEVS and 144 volt lithium iron phosphate battery pack.  (second picture)  It, too, was a huge success.  I took it to every car show I could find for the next 5 years.  I discovered that not only could I stop buying oil but I could also spread the word about EV’s and how much better they are than gasoline/diesel burning vehicles. 

It’s not only that they don’t use petroleum products and are arguably better for the environment.  EV’s are just BETTER!  They’re simple, elegant, efficient, quiet, smooth, fast and fun to drive.  More than that, if you go into your garage and make one, it’s absolutely the most satisfying thing you can do with your time and money.  It is not a way to save money.  A conversion will cost at minimum $15,000 (a little less than I put into the Ranger), in excess of $50,000 (what I have in the Jeep) and beyond.  The payback period is 10-20 years.  But what’s the payback period on your couch or big screen TV?  It’s not about money.

Moving on.  I retired from the Air Force and moved to Cape Girardeau, Missouri where I got a job at, of all places, EVTV!!  I worked with Jack for just over a year.  While there I finished a couple of conversions that they had started and did a complete conversion of a 1992 VW DoppelKabine « The Doka » using a Tesla Drive Unit.  At the time, it was one of the first conversions using a Tesla motor. (third picture of me and Jack)  There is a great short video of the Doka.  Search for Smoka Doka in youtube.

A gallon of gas has roughly 34kWh or energy.  That’s 13x MORE energy used to do the same amount of work.  13x more energy WASTED.  For the same amount of energy as a gallon of gas, I could mow my entire yard for an entire summer!  It’s obscene.  Every one has a mower.  Everyone wastes that much energy.  That’s exactly what I mean when I say it’s not about money.  Automobiles aren’t that bad.  They only waste about 4x as much energy as an EV.

Now the Jeep. 

I’ve built this as a no compromise EV conversion.  I’ve always loved Jeeps.  It started out as a stock 1997 Jeep TJ with a 2.5L engine and 5 speed trans.  I have modified everything on it.  The only thing I haven’t really touched is the body tub.  That’s not exactly true.  I converted the rear swing-out tailgate to a drop tailgate.  The suspension is a long arm kit from IronRockOffRoad.  You cut off almost all of the factory suspension mounts from the frame and axles and bolt in a center structure where the new suspension arms mount. 

A truss is welded to the rear axle for the upper arms.  I also installed an over-the-knuckle steering kit.  I did this as much for it’s toughness as the factory steering arms looked ridiculous with the new beefy suspension.  I re-geared the differentials to 3.07:1, installed chromoly axles, installed a « lunchbox locker » in the rear diff, installed a rear disc brake kit and a disc upgrade on front. Ironically, the improved braking is largely unnecessary as EV’s have regenerative braking so the normal brakes rarely get used! From there I started making the mounts for the Tesla motor.  I’m using a rear Drive Unit from a wrecked Model S Performance.  The DU replaces the engine, transmission and transfer case. 

It has up to 500hp and 425lbft of torque at the motor.  I replaced the factory 9.38:1 gears in the drive unit with 4.5:1 gears.  Those, combined with the 3.07:1 diff gears gives me a final drive of 13.8:1.  That’s basically like being in 1st gear all the time.  You can get away with this because the Tesla motor spins up to 16,000rpm!  I should have a top speed of around 100mph and a 0-60 time around 5 seconds.  The DU weighs 300lb.  The 4cyl, 5 speed and transfer case weighed 660lb.  Electric propulsion is dramatically more power dense than internal combustion.  I’m using a full 90kWh battery pack from a Tesla Model S or Model X.  It consists of 16 24 volt modules that each weigh just over 50lb.  Combined with the battery racks, the battery adds over 1000lb to the Jeep.  90kWh is equivalent to 2.6 gallons of gas.  2.6 gallons of gas would weigh about 20lb.  What weight I lost in the motor I gained back and more in the battery. 

Gasoline is about 50x more energy dense than lithium batteries.  I ordered custom length drive shafts from Tom Woods Driveline.  They have upgraded 1350 Ujoints.  I’m using a 6.6kW battery charger that has a 1.8kW DCDC charger built it.  A DCDC charger changes the 400V pack voltage to 12V for normal car things.  1.8kW is about the same as a 140amp alternator except MUCH more efficient. 

Did you know alternators are at best only about 50% efficient?  So, a 140amp alternator is actually a 280amp alternator except 140amps is wasted as heat!  Crazy.  Charging is done through a standard J1772 plug.  The same as you might see at a charging station outside a hotel or something. The Jeep will not be compatible with Tesla’s Supercharge network. 

People always ask how long it takes to charge.  Well, that depends.  Did I run the pack down to the point where I needed a tow truck to get home?  Well, in that case it’ll take about 13 hours.  The real answer is I don’t know and don’t really care!  Why?  Let’s say I drive to work and then the store and then come home.  That’s about 50 miles.  That will use roughly 20kWh or my pack.  It would take 3hr to charge.  The reason I don’t care is because I just plug it in when I get home and forget about it.  I go inside, watch TV eat dinner and go to sleep.  It’s full in the morning.  Did it stop charging at 11PM?  Or 1AM or somewhere in between?  I don’t know.  I’d say this is the most difficult thing for non-EV owners to grasp.  You don’t EVER run the battery out…EVER!!   People will ask what if you drive to « X » location and run out of battery?  That is like saying what if you ran your gasoline car out of gas and the nearest fuel station is 100 miles away and there is no cell phone reception?  COULD that happen?  Sure.  Is it ever going to happen?  No way.  If you were about to drive your car on a stretch or of road that is 200 miles long and you know there are not any gas stations, will you start that trip without looking at your fuel gauge?  Will you do it without fueling up before you leave?  Of course not!  Same with EV’s.  Every single morning the Jeep will be full.  Every single morning, I’ll have 200 miles of range.  I can either drive 100mi in one direction and come back or I can go on 5 20-mile trips or I can drive 10 miles and plug it in for the rest of the day.  The next morning it will be full.

Future plans is to swap out the factory axles with one-ton axles from a full-size truck.  Until I do that I will not be able to realize the full power of the Tesla motor.  The differentials in the factory axles are not made for that much torque.

As of today, I’m still trying to get all of the motor parameters correct so it behaves the way I want it to.  Think of it like programming a fuel injection system.  Get a curve a little wrong and you’ll have very poor performance and could damage the engine.  Same with an electric motor.  Once that is sorted out, I have a 900 watt stereo system to install complete with a 10″ subwoofer.  I figure if you’re going to have a quiet vehicle, you might as well have a loud stereo!  🙂 

Dave Daneault 4x4setupMagazine

Pour en savoir plus voila la chaine YouTube du projet: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRlUpaTM-jNI8yRR_oafVUA

TIPS FOR BEGINNERS! PART 1

TIPS FOR BEGINNERS! PART 1

We all know the expression « you have to learn to walk before you can run. » But, unfortunately, we often seem to forget this. Today, the image is more important than the result, and we want to do and have everything right away without spending too much money or time searching.

That is true in several cases but let us focus on the automotive modifications and specifically the off-road 4×4. Of course, I am not a guru, and I do not know everything, but I still have enough experience to tell you about this phenomenon, which makes me smile every time.

Whether in a modified car meet or a 4×4 event, we have all already seen modified vehicles which, at first glance, make us wonder about the owner’s priorities. I will give you a typical example to illustrate what I am talking about: a Civic 95 with a Japanese engine swap, a modified air intake, a high-performance exhaust system, a lowered suspension (often homemade by cutting the springs yourself), a kit of skirts and deflectors as well as a spoiler. The vehicle can look good, fast, and efficient, but unfortunately, most of the time, the budget is put on anything flashy. With a vehicle pushed to its limits, it would be wise to ensure that all the basic mechanics are in good condition before spending money on engine performance improvements. A more powerful engine is sure exciting but is it safe to speed up a vehicle without testing the suspension geometry (homemade low suspension), without verifying the state of wheel bearings, without modifying the brakes?

But enough about cars, I was illustrating my point with an example we have all seen. The same happens with off-road 4x4s. In this article, I have put together a list that, in my humble opinion, will help you prioritize your projects, thus allowing you to have a great experience, avoid being a burden on those with whom you ride, and that will save you a lot of time and bad positions. This article is NOT a list of MUST-DO’s but rather a list of things to consider to ensure a positive and long-lasting experience in the off-road world.

When you think of going off-road with a 4WD, I sincerely believe that the first investment should be in rescue/recovery equipment: a good winch (at least 1 ½ times the weight of the vehicle), good front and rear tie-down hooks, a good sling, a bungee rope (Bubba Rope is often the first name that comes to mind, but there are several kinds), a hi-lift, and a toolbox with a minimum of tools to carry out emergency repairs in the trail. And I am only listing the most important!

I know it is not quite as flashy as a nice, elevated suspension and cool, big new tires, but I guarantee you can have a lot of fun with a stock vehicle and good recovery equipment! At least you will not be a dead weight to your friends if you happen to venture a little too far for your vehicle’s capabilities or have a minor mechanical breakdown. In addition, you will gain much more experience trying to make your way with a stock vehicle, and you will even take greater pride in it!

When the time comes to put on a higher suspension and bigger tires, there are factors to consider to prevent headaches and band-aid solutions that only solve problems that could have been avoided in the first place.

You should know that the simple fact of raising a vehicle changes its aerodynamics and therefore increases fuel consumption. Adding the increased weight of the tires, the difference in air displaced by the tires, and the extra force required of the engine to move those bigger tires will cause excessive fuel consumption, lack of power and the vehicle will not behave as expected. Also, depending on the suspension brand, the geometry and behavior of the vehicle (spring rate and stiffness of the shock absorbers) can significantly change the handling. Finally, do not forget that this added weight, the shift of gravity, and the different road behavior will also change the braking capacity, the handling, and points where the vehicle will roll over. When shopping to raise your 4WD, the most important thing is to do your homework. By that, I mean that with all the information available (Internet, forums, specialized auto shops, magazines, etc.), you have all the necessary tools to make informed and targeted purchases according to your needs.

Regarding the solutions I was talking about earlier to counter some effects of larger tires, the most often underestimated one is to change the gear ratio of your differential. I have tested it on a few vehicles, and this change makes the most significant difference. The gear ratio plays a huge role in the equation, whether it is for fuel consumption, acceleration response, transmission behavior, maintaining cruising speed without downshifting, or even the ease of overcoming obstacles.

Increasing the gear ratio (e.g., from 3.73:1 to 4.10:1) will increase the number of revolutions required by the engine to make a complete turn of the wheels, which will increase the force deployed. I will go into details in another article for those who want further explanation on this principle. In the meantime, if you wish to change your differential ratio, I strongly advise you to consult a professional and ask lots of questions to get a good idea of your needs. Also, knowing what use you will make of the vehicle is essential, as this has a significant impact on your decision.

Another underrated solution is the braking system. The increased weight of the tires will increase the vehicle’s kinetic energy (mass x acceleration/speed). If you look a little bit at physics, you will understand that any vehicle’s brake system uses friction to transform kinetic energy into heat energy. Nothing is lost, nothing is created, everything is transformed! So, if you have more kinetic energy, you will also have more heat energy. More heat can cause brake problems like premature wear, drum glazing, disc warping, or even broken calipers. You can improve your braking system with, for instance, high-performance ventilated rotors, high-performance pads with better heat resistance, and drum to disc brake conversion. Plus, drum brakes keep a lot more dirt inside, which will cause them to wear out and rust prematurely.

Then comes the transmission. For a manual transmission, there are fewer impacts, although if you put a lot of weight on your tires, a quality clutch could be something to consider to avoid excessive slipping. For both manual and automatic transmission, heat is the number one enemy! And, as with the brakes, friction generates this heat. So, when your clutch slips, it overheats the transmission and can even destroy it. That is even more true in the case of an automatic transmission where the clutches are done automatically. More strain on the automatic transmission will often expose it to more slipping. A transmission radiator can be a great solution to keep the transmission cooler. Depending on the setup, the transmission could be modified to make it stronger (shift kit, higher quality clutches, etc.). One thing that does not cost a lot that will give you peace of mind is a transmission temperature gauge. With that, you always know what is going on inside, and if it starts to heat up, you can give it a break or adapt your driving accordingly. If you are towing with your vehicle, this is even more important! Changing the differential ratio will also go a long way in reducing slippage by putting less strain on the transmission.

I am stopping here to let you simmer it all and not stuff your head with too much information. Come back for the second part… I will talk about vehicle armor (protection plates, differential covers, rock sliders, bumpers, etc.), lighting (adjusting the front headlights, having good lighting that does not drain the electrical system to be able to get out of dead-ends at night, etc.), the importance of dragging a spare tire, and other things to think about! I reiterate that this article does not list mandatory things but rather things to be considered for a positive and pleasant experience for all!

Alex Thibeault 4x4SetupMagazine

Ton set-up… www.4x4setup.com