On trail days, we air down our tires to increase the footprint on the surface and, therefore, get extra traction. It is a two-step process as airing down implies airing back up after the trail. There are several good tire inflation systems out there, such as Power Tank-style tanks, compressors, modified air conditioning compressors, or the very popular and famous « pass me your Power Tank, mine is empty! » No matter what you use, it will be limited to the amount of air your valve can let in given its diameter.
You have a Tinder date or have promised your partner that you would be back early… Well, Monster Valves can save you a few seconds!
Monster Valves are oversized aluminum valve stems. Their large size allows for a greater volume of air per second to pass through, thus saving you time – if your inflation system can supply, of course. According to the manufacturer Power Tank, it is possible to air up a 40 x 13.50 tire up 35 psi in less than 30 seconds, and air up that same tire in 50-60 seconds with an efficient inflation system. As you can see in the picture below, the concept is that all components are oversized to let more air in (or out). You can also notice the core tool on the cap to remove the valve core for a much higher in/out airflow – instead of using your keys!
The installation is relatively easy. When you order your kit, you get the necessary information on drill and tap sizes. The installation consists of two simple steps: marking and drilling the new hole, then tapping threads that will allow screwing the new valve stem in place.
Before drilling your wheel, it is good to know that the new valve stems are bigger, and if you have beadlocks, it will be difficult or even impossible to inflate the tires with your standard tire inflator.
You will need an elbow adapter that will allow you to reach the valve. Some people prefer to drill out the preexisting valve stem hole, but others prefer to drill a new hole and keep the original valve stem. The latter’s advantage allows you to still fill your tires up the good old way if you happen to forget your adapter.
So, the fairly simple installation and benefits for inflating/deflating your tires (which are often oversized, too) make this system a good candidate for a little weekend project on your rig!
Let’s start at the beginning. Why a roof top tent?
The main advantage of a RTT or Roof Top Tent, is that it always has a flat and comfortable underside, unlike a traditional tent where you have to carefully choose the ground where the tent will be set up; Away from roots rocks and away from cold/wet ground. In some places, the tent should be out of reach from dangerous animals.
A Roof Top Tent is a luxury that brings a lot of comfort.
While it is relatively new to the North American market, the popularity of this concept has been widespread in Europe for several decades. The first one appeared in the 1930s in Western Europe.
The Autohome, a very popular concept in Italy, was among the first to be imported here. In operation since 1958, Autohome is possibly the oldest of the current manufacturers. In recent years, competitors have multiplied, offering several levels of quality, innovative options and a wide range of tent classes exist.
The foldable and flexible RTTs, and the rigid RTTs. There are some rare models that are a hybrid between the two concepts.
The soft ones usually fold in half and are covered with a protective canvas for transport, these models range in prices.
The advantages of soft tents:
-Space occupied in transport position is half the area of the tent size
-Easier storage due to smaller size when in off-season storage
Option to have an additional section hanging under the extended part, providing an enclosed space under the platform and also the advantage of being able to access the tent dry when it rains
This type of RTT is generally more affordable than rigid RTTs
Disadvantages of soft tents:
-Often more fragile because of the frames and more susceptible to abrasion between the canvas and its frames
-More susceptible to water leaks and require more care after a rain
-Greater difficulty to deploy the tent in sub-zero temperatures
-Low storage capacity inside the closed tent
-Slower to deploy, more effort to pack up
Hardtop tents are generally made of a hard shell that opens by connecting the two parts with fabric. Most are made of fiberglass, some of aluminum and rarely carbon fiber.
The advantages of rigid tents:
-Super fast set up (usually less than 15 seconds)
-strong durability
-Large interior storage; bed does not have to be re-made
-Better heat retention potential
-Generally thicker and firmer mattress (does not have to be folded for storage)
-Good weather resistance
Disadvantages of rigid tents:
-Space occupied is often double that of soft tents
-Cost of acquisition much higher
-Impossibility to have additional sections within the tent, access to the tent during bad weather is therefore more difficult
With many products these days, the price is often a reference of the quality of the product, but the gain in benefits is in diminishing returns. That is, the difference between a $1000 RTT and a $2000 one is much greater than between a $4000 tent and a $5000 one.
In the case of roof top tents, two factors are primarily affected.
The first and most obvious is the choice of materials:
The fabric used will be more or less weather resistant. The fabric can be naturally water resistant while others require regular treatment. The top of the range is waterproof; water is not blocked during penetration; it beads on the surface and does not enter the material. The advantage is that the tent can be closed wet without the risk of mildew. High-end textiles are also more resistant to abrasion and stains.
Not all zippers are of equal quality. They are often very long closures exposed to the elements. Repair work on a RTT with specialized fabrics can be extremely expensive, not to mention the difficulty of finding a specialist who can make the repair.
The floor of soft tents can be made of composite materials or plywood. The weight and durability of composites are better.
The thickness of the fiberglass in the tents varies from one model to another; greater the thickness, the better the resistance to cracking. There are also several levels of quality in the fiber fabrics used in the manufacturing process of fiberglass products.
The second major factor affecting price is attention to detail and the amount of detail in the design:
-Interior storage pockets
-Waterproof exterior shoe pockets
-Quality of the ladder
-Solar lights
-Solar powered fan
-Details to facilitate opening and closing (air expeller, ropes, elastics)
-Canopy to protect openings
-Number of openings
-Load capacity on the roof of the tent (e.g., kayak or bicycle rack)
The installation of an RTT requires special attention. It is a very heavy element for the roof load capacity of many vehicles. It is important to check the manufacturer’s specifications, while considering the weight of the tent and the people who will sleep in it. For example, a four-person tent will easily hold 600lbs in this case some quality loading poles are necessary, and this is an important element to consider in the purchase cost. Tents are more often than not made overseas, specifically in China. As in many areas, the Chinese supply is highly variable. Contrary to popular belief, the level of quality depends more on what the designer orders than where it is manufactured. Quality control on an assembly line is a paid service that is part of the unit price of the product when ordered by a Canadian, American or other designer. This is true no matter where it is manufactured.
Of the four Canadian manufacturers, Treeline Outdoors and Burmis Oudoors are from Alberta and GoXplore is from Quebec. These manufacturers all offer several levels of quality and detail in their tent models. All three seem to have multiple customers satisfied enough to proclaim it publicly.
When we say to our partner « I’m going for a ride in my 4×4, » it means that we do not always know what time or even what day we are coming back. For Marc Mellet, going for a ride sometimes means driving 70 000 km and crossing 25 countries for 2 years. I’d like to tell you about this adventure, which put a 4×4 to the test in the true sense of the word.
Prior to this long journey, Marc had already tried, 7 years earlier, to reach Kamtchatka, a 1250-kilometre-long volcanic peninsula located in the Russian Far East which juts out into the Pacific Ocean. However, an accident (barrel roll) near the town of Magadan prevented him from carrying out his project. As Marc does not usually give up his goals, he set up a new travel plan to reach the volcanic peninsula. About two years before the big departure date, he met Jeanne-Sarah Savart who became his travel partner as well as the writer of the book which tells the story of their trip.
The two enthusiasts decided to begin their adventure in a Land Cruiser BJ75. They left in 2012 and went through Europe, Turkey, the Caucasus, Central Asia, Mongolia, Russia, and Japan.
Such journeys should not be undertaken with just any vehicle. The Land Cruiser was bought in 2001 for €6000 (Can$8954 today) with 270 000 km on the odometer. It had to undergo several modifications to accomplish its heavy task two years later. When the adventure started, the odometer already indicated 434 435 km, and 70 000 km were added with the journey.
Engine: Replacing the engine was the first major transformation. The original 3.4-litre 4-cylinder diesel engine (a 3b) only produced 90 hp, which was insufficient for the trip. It was replaced by a more modern Toyota engine from an HDJ80, a 12-valve 4.2-litre turbo diesel (1HDT) boosting the power to almost 170 hp. This modification forced Marc to also change the engine mounts, radiator, alternator, air filter, etc.
Tires: Michelin YZL 255/100-16 were chosen, and Toyo Open Country M/T 265/75-16 were chosen for the snowy part of the trip.
Suspension: Marc fitted two OME gas shocks to each wheel, as well as King Springs HD OME HHD rear leaf springs.
Fuel tanks: The vehicle was equipped with three tanks for a long range: the 90-litre original tank, a 95-litre Long Range Automotive central tank, and a 150-litre tank located at the rear. It may seem a lot, but it was necessary for a worry-free adventure.
Money: One of the first things, of course, that comes to mind when we hear about such a project, how much does it cost? In their case, they told me that they estimated their budget at €1200 per month, or about Can$1791. This amount included the required visas, food, some repairs, and fuel which accounted for half of the budget. They received money from a French off-road magazine. In exchange, Jeanne-Sarah had to write 7 article pages every month about their trip. They were also lucky enough to have a major sponsorship from Euro4x4parts which helped a lot by sending hundreds of spare parts during the trip.
I asked them what their typical day looked like. Here is their response: “Discovery and the unexpected have been our daily lot during these two years. There was no definite plan. Apart from visa constraints, we made our way at random and according to meetings. We ended up not driving much as we preferred to spend a few days at a place to enjoy it or its people. Our vehicle allows us to bivouac anywhere and be self-sufficient in nature or in the city. We slept mainly in our 4×4 or with the locals who invited us. We must say that our Land Cruiser is an incredible socializing tool. It draws attention and questions, and it allows us to meet people”.
“We have traveled in all seasons. There were periods of severe cold weather or very hot weather. In Siberia in winter, our heater, which had been damaged when we overturned the truck a few months earlier, refused to work when it was -40 °C. Fortunately, our duvets are designed for very low temperatures, and we slept with our shapkas on our head. In the end, the hardest part was not so much resisting the cold than managing our water supply. An hour to thaw a bottle every morning; enough to die of thirst in front of a large ice cube”.
Every day brought something new and exciting, but nothing could parallel the adrenaline rush that the adventurers had during the crossing of Lake Baikal. Located in southern Siberia, in eastern Russia, it is the largest reservoir of liquid freshwater on Earth’s surface, approximately 23 500 cubic km. The water is unusually transparent and clear, and one can see up to 40 metres deep. The lake is sometimes nicknamed the Pearl of Siberia. The adventurers drove some 400 kilometres on the frozen lake, sometimes in the middle of a storm, avoiding crevasses. They never lost sight of the fact that the ice could give way at any time. There, help is so far away that by the time it would have taken to arrive, they would have had time to turn into Mr. Freeze.
It was precisely the adrenaline and all the adventures that convinced them to write a book. It was no longer a simple journey but an adventure that they wanted to share with the rest of the world. Marc, who is a professional photographer, was able to bring a very personal touch, which we can admire in the book. There is also a book about Marc’s first trip: Davai Kamtchatka.
I also asked them about their next project. They already had a lot of ideas in mind. But first, they had to repair the Land Cruiser since it had suffered a bit on the last trip. A film about their adventure was not excluded from the possibilities. As for next destinations, they were thinking about Iceland and Africa.
While for some, this aspect of our passion is clear and simple, for others who are new to our sport, it raises several questions.
First of all, what is the advantage of deflating our tires during our trail rides? Well, it’s pretty simple, loosening the air will greatly increase the size of your footprint. Therefore, you will have a greater quantity of studs in contact with the ground.
Riding at low pressure on the trail makes a smoother ride, and also helps the tire absorb shock, unlike a tire with a larger volume of air. To a certain extent, this protects you from punctures, because a soft tire will deform around a sharp rock, instead of puncturing while remaining rigid and offering a flat surface.
In my opinion, one of the most important things to consider before deflating is: how are we going to reinflate after the trail. For those who use trailers to transport their 4×4 vehicle, this is not really an issue since they will be able to take care of it back home. For those who will be returning to the trail afterwards, it will be imperative to blow out the tires after the trail for safety reasons. On a hard surface like asphalt, it could be extremely dangerous to ride at very low pressure, main reason is you will have poor handling during turns on a paved road.
So, there are several options for inflation, there is something for everyone and especially for every budget.
-Compressor, there are several compressors on the market, from the small one that plugs into your cigarette lighter to the big one that plugs directly into your vehicle’s power. The small model can help out and many will tell you that it is perfect for them. In many cases it ends up overheating, especially if your tires are oversized… There are also compressors that are plugged directly into the vehicle’s power supply, which is what I personally use. You have to shop around because the prices can be quite high depending on the option you choose. In my case, I opted for a large double ARB model that allows me to inflate and operate air tools when needed on the trail. There are other smaller models from ARB that do the job nicely, as well as several other manufacturers offering different models.
So, an important thing to know when shopping for your compressor, you need to choose the right compressor that will be able to meet the requirements of your trail needs. In doing so you will need to look at several details, but here are two very important ones:
PSI: Pounds per Square Inch, is the pressure generated by the compressor. Kind of like the force at which you blow through a straw. The higher the psi number the more air is compressed by the machine. So, if you want to use your system to run air tools, you need to make sure you have enough psi for the different tools. The required psi will be marked on the tools.
CFM: Cubic Feet per Minute, is the speed of air flow from the compressor. How fast the air is flowing through a straw, if you want to run multiple air tools simultaneously on the same compressor then you need to add up the CFM values of each. This will tell you if your compressor is pushing enough CFM to run all three at the same time.
We are talking about deflating our tires on the trail, but of course the type of terrain will dictate the level of air you need in your vehicle. It is also possible in my case to add a reserve of additional air, which will allow your compressor to blow a little in case of great need.
You can also use a ((Power tank)) a compressed CO2 tank, which allows you to blow your tires in a very efficient and fast way. The only drawback is that you will have to refill it from time to time depending on the size of your tank and the frequency of use.
One of the last options is to modify your air conditioning compressor into an air compressor with a plug for your air hose, this one requires a little more knowledge to do the modifications properly.
So as mentioned, there are several options available to you, but be aware that there are certain criteria that must be observed to help you choose. Price, air flow rate, warranties and ease of installation should be considered. Note that even if you choose the compressor that pushes the most cfm for a much faster inflation, if your tire valves do not allow for a larger air volume your purchase will be limited by those valves.
With this in mind, there is also an option available to you – Monster valves offer a much larger hole circumference than your original valves. The PowerTank company guarantees that with such valves you can blow out a 39.5×13.50 tire at 30 psi in 30 seconds or even reinflate the same tire in 40 to 50 seconds (with the right compressor of course).
This will allow a larger volume of air to pass through the nozzle which will save you a lot of time. Another thing to keep in mind before deflating, lowering the pressure, how low do you go… One issue that can happen when the tire pressure is too low will be the tire bead will pop off the rim. The best option to avoid this problem is to instal a Beadlock, this system locks the tire in place, with this system you will be able to go as low as 5 psi and even some people ride with around 2 or 3 psi.
For those who don’t have this system, I recommend not to go below 15 psi because you will run into problems on the trail.
In conclusion, deflating your tires when you go out on the trail is a great idea. You just have to choose the right air pressure according to your needs and the capabilities of your tire/wheel setup. Don’t forget to put back the pressure recommended by the manufacturer before going back on the road.
This time, we’re going to take a look at the pros and cons of diesel vs. gas engines, basic maintenance, and some myths.
One significant advantage of a diesel engine is torque. It’s not for nothing that most heavy vehicles and machinery are either electric, diesel, or a mix of the two, such as trains (a diesel engine runs a generator that supplies electric motors). Another important difference is fuel economy. Yes, diesel fuel is sometimes more expensive than regular gas. And yes, the fuel consumption of a pickup that is not loaded is barely better than a gas one. However, that’s a different story when it is put to work.
The diesel engine is designed to work. It’s much tougher than a comparable gas engine, but there is a drawback. For a long and healthy life, a diesel must warm up and carry loads. There is no better example than heavy trucks. They can drive several hundred thousand kilometres before needing an engine rebuild (the previous owner of my Peterbilt blew up the engine at 1.7 million kilometres). For those currently driving a diesel with a pyrometer (exhaust temperature gauge), it is as low as possible for fuel economy, while the ideal for the engine is approximately 800 F.
People who buy a diesel to look cool and go around the corner will likely have problems with their vehicle in the medium term. The cylinders will glaze (become chrome, and compression will leak). Those with EGR, DPF, or urea systems will get a lighted Christmas tree on the dashboard…
Why were the old diesels hard to start while new ones almost start like gas engines? First, the compression ratio. The old GM’s 6.2L/6.5L, Ford’s 6.9L, the first Ford’s 7.3L, and the VW TDs are all indirect injection (IDI) engines, which means that the injector sends fuel to a prechamber and not directly to the piston. As a result, these old engines had very high compression ratios, between 20 and 22:1, and the injection pressure was on average between 4 and 8000 psi.
Newer common rail diesel engines have compression ratios between 14 and 17:1, making it much easier on the starter, and injection pressure between 28 and 35 000 psi injected directly to the piston. And for those lucky engines, synthetic oil helps a lot with cold starts, which was not popular in the 1980s.
A question that comes up often, I have the choice between two pickups, say a 2018 Silverado 2500HD 4-door 4WD with the same equipment. The 6.0L gasoline engine is $60 000, but it is $72 000 with the Duramax (on GM’s website). I don’t work with it; I just pull my caravan in the summer. Which one should I take? If you intend to keep the pickup and forget the resale value, unless you cross Canada regularly to go camping, the gasoline truck is the logical choice. Why? Like I’ve said, a diesel is made to work hard. If it doesn’t have any loads three seasons out of four, it won’t be happy. In the summer, if you pull your caravan, for example, eight times and drive 600 km round-trip each time, it makes about 5000 km per summer. We are going to make sales figures… The diesel pickup consumes 15 L/100 km at $1.35/L, so it costs $20.75 for 100 km and $1012 for the 5000 km of camping. The gas pickup consumes 25 L/100 km at $1.35/L, so it costs $33.75 for 100 km and $1687 for the same 5000 km. You save about $675 per year. Sounds cool, but you paid $12 000 more when you purchased your truck. That means if you do 5000 km of camping per year, it will take you almost 18 years to start making money on your $12 000. Every time I say that I kind of feel like I’ve burst people’s bubble. Of course, the numbers vary, oil prices fluctuate, dealers sometimes have deals on specific models, but basically, you understand the idea: to make your diesel truck cost-effective, you have to work with it.
On the maintenance side, some say a diesel engine requires more maintenance than a gas one… Apart from the fuel filter once a year (ideally in the fall to have a clean filter without water before winter), the rest is the same. Keep the air filter clean and change the oil. True, it costs more. It’s not more maintenance, but it’s more expensive because it takes on average 10 to 15 liters of oil for a pickup, and some models have more expensive filters. Besides that, there is nothing more to do.
Some myths… A diesel engine doesn’t start in winter; it just makes black smoke, and it’s not efficient. If we go back to the 1980s and early 1990s, it was pretty much like that. But as I’ve said, engines have been improved a lot since. A modern diesel engine in good order can easily start at -20 without a problem. Stock diesels with an emission control system (so no smoke) are offered with almost 400 horsepower and some exceed 900 pound-feet of torque.
In the next article: programmers, gains, breakages, manufacturer’s guarantees, the legal side…
Nous aimons beaucoup vous présenter des projets hors du commun au magazine. Cette semaine nous en avons un en effet très spécial… un jeep/Tesla… Nous sommes tombés sur ce véhicule complètement par hasard sur le web, et qu’on aime ou pas la direction que prend la technologie, elle nous apporte de plus en plus vers l’électrification de notre passion. Cette nouvelle technologie n’intéresse pas tous les passionnées de hors route, mais pour certain c’est autre chose.
C’est le cas de Bill Bayer le propriétaire et concepteur du Jeep/Tesla. Nous lui avons demandé de nous parler un peu de son projet.
BILL : J’ai grandi dans le Missouri, mon enfance était partagée entre le vélo et la fabrication d’objets avec mes blocs Lego. À l’époque j’avais même soumis une idée de modèle à Lego, qui a été refusée, la compagnie m’a quand meme envoyé comme cadeau une affiche d’une navette spatiale. Aux études, j’ai complété un bac en mécanique automobile. J’ai ensuite poursuivi mes études en technologie automobile au Rankin Technical College. Mais je n’ai malheureusement pas trouvé de travail dans ce même domaine.
Quelques années plus tard, j’ai décidé de joindre l’armée de l’air. J’ai servi mes 4 premières années en Angleterre à travailler sur les avions de chasse F-15E. Après avoir été déployé en Afghanistan j’ai découvert un site web appelé Electric Vehicle Televison. Le cerveau de l’entreprise était un homme aujourd’hui décédé, Jack Rickard. Il avait converti une réplique d’une Porsche Speedster de 1969 en utilisant des piles au phosphate de lithium. Sa philosophie était la suivante : si un gros homme portant des chaussures jaunes et tombant ivre mort peut construire une voiture qui n’utilise pas d’essence et peut parcourir 100 km sur une charge, pourquoi les constructeurs automobiles ne le pourraient-ils pas ?
Chris Paine a posé cette même question dans son merveilleux documentaire « Who Killed the Electric Car« . Jack Rickard a également suggéré qu’il suffisait d’aller dans son garage, de balayer un espace de la taille d’une voiture et d’aller changer le monde ! J’ai pris ce défi très au sérieux. Je ne peux pas changer la politique, je ne peux pas arrêter les guerres pour le pétrole et la sécurité énergétique, mais je peux réduire ou éliminer ma dépendance à leur égard.
Rokon 1969
Je suis revenu d’Afghanistan en homme changé. Quelques années plus tard, j’étais stationné dans le New Jersey où la construction de mon EV a commencé. Ma première conversion, pour me mettre dans le bain, était un Rokon 1969 que j’avais récupéré en Alaska. À l’origine, il avait un affreux moteur à deux temps de 125 cm3. Il était difficile à démarrer, pas très puissant, sentait mauvais et était bruyant. Je l’ai remplacé par un moteur DC 5hp et une batterie Lithium Iron phosphate 48 volts. (Première photo). C’était un énorme succès. Mon projet suivant était un camion Ford Ranger de 1994. Je l’ai converti en utilisant un moteur à induction AC de HPEVS et une batterie au lithium phosphate de fer de 144 volts. (Deuxième photo) Ce fut également un grand succès. Je l’ai emmené à toutes les expositions de voitures que j’ai pu trouver pendant les 5 années suivantes. J’ai découvert que non seulement je pouvais arrêter d’acheter du pétrole, mais que je pouvais aussi faire connaître les VE et leur supériorité sur les véhicules à essence ou diesel.
Ce n’est pas seulement qu’ils n’utilisent pas de produits pétroliers et qu’ils sont sans doute meilleurs pour l’environnement. Les VE sont tout simplement MEILLEURES ! Ils sont simples, élégants, efficaces, silencieux, doux, rapides et amusants à conduire. De plus, si vous entrez dans votre garage pour en fabriquer un, c’est absolument la chose la plus satisfaisante que vous puissiez faire avec votre temps et votre argent. Ce n’est pas un moyen d’économiser de l’argent. Une conversion coûtera au minimum 15 000 $ (un peu moins que ce que j’ai mis dans la Ranger), jusqu’à plus de 50 000 $ (ce que j’ai dans la Jeep) et plus. Le délai de récupération est de 10 à 20 ans. Mais quel est le délai de récupération de votre canapé ou de votre téléviseur grand écran ? Ce n’est pas une question d’argent.
VW DoppelKabine
Je vais de l’avant. J’ai pris ma retraite de l’armée de l’air et j’ai déménagé à Cape Girardeau, dans le Missouri, où j’ai trouvé un emploi chez EVTV ! J’ai travaillé avec Jack pendant un peu plus d’un an. J’ai terminé quelques conversions qu’ils avaient commencées et j’ai fait une conversion complète d’une VW DoppelKabine « The Doka » de 1992 en utilisant un moteur Tesla. À l’époque, c’était l’une des premières conversions utilisant un moteur Tesla. (Troisième photo de moi et Jack) Il y a une excellente vidéo de la Doka. Cherchez Smoka Doka sur YouTube.
Un gallon d’essence contient environ 34 kWh d’énergie. C’est 13x PLUS d’énergie utilisée pour faire la même quantité de travail. 13 fois plus d’énergie gaspillée. Pour la même quantité d’énergie qu’un gallon d’essence, je pourrais tondre mon jardin entier pendant tout un été ! C’est obscène. Tout le monde a une tondeuse. Tout le monde gaspille autant d’énergie. C’est exactement ce que je veux dire quand je dis que ce n’est pas une question d’argent. Les automobiles ne sont pas si mauvaises. Elles ne gaspillent que 4 fois plus d’énergie qu’un véhicule électrique.
Maintenant la Jeep.
Je l’ai construite comme une conversion EV sans compromis. J’ai toujours aimé les Jeeps. Il a commencé comme un stock 1997 Jeep TJ avec un moteur 2,5 L et une transmission 5 vitesses. J’ai tout modifié sur elle. La seule chose que je n’ai pas vraiment touchée est la tub de carrosserie. Ce n’est pas tout à fait vrai. J’ai transformé le hayon arrière pivotant en hayon basculant. La suspension est un kit long arm de IronRockOffRoad. Il faut couper presque tous les supports de suspension d’usine du châssis et des essieux et boulonner une structure centrale où les nouveaux bras de suspension sont montés.
Un « truss » est soudé à l’essieu arrière pour les bras supérieurs. J’ai également installé un kit de direction « over-the-knuckle ». Je l’ai fait autant pour sa robustesse que pour les bras de direction d’origine qui semblaient ridicules avec la nouvelle suspension musclée. J’ai chagé les ratios des différentiels à 3.07:1, installé des essieux chromoly, installé un « lunchbox locker » dans le différentiel arrière, installé un kit de frein à disque arrière et une mise à niveau de disque à l’avant. Ironiquement, l’amélioration du freinage est en grande partie inutile, car les VE ont un freinage par régénération et les freins normaux sont rarement utilisés ! À partir de là, j’ai commencé à fabriquer les supports pour le moteur Tesla. J’utilise une unité de transmission arrière provenant d’une Model S Performance accidentée. Le DU remplace le moteur, la transmission et la boîte de transfert. Il a jusqu’à 500hp et 425lbft de couple au moteur. J’ai remplacé les engrenages d’usine 9.38:1 dans l’unité de transmission par des engrenages 4.5:1. Ceux-ci, combinés avec les engrenages 3.07:1 du différentiel, me donnent un rapport final de 13.8:1. Cela revient à être en 1ère vitesse tout le temps. Vous pouvez vous en tirer, car le moteur Tesla tourne jusqu’à 16 000 tr/min ! Je devrais avoir une vitesse de pointe d’environ 100 MPH et un temps de 0-60 d’environ 5 secondes. Le DU pèse 300lb. Le 4 cylindres, le 5 vitesses et la boîte de transfert pèsent 660 livres. La propulsion électrique est beaucoup plus dense en puissance que la combustion interne. J’utilise une batterie complète de 90 kWh provenant d’une Tesla Model S ou Model X. Elle se compose de 16 modules de 24 volts qui pèsent chacun un peu plus de 50 livres.
Combinée avec les supports de batterie, la batterie ajoute plus de 1000lb à la Jeep. 90kWh est équivalent à 2,6 gallons d’essence. 2,6 gallons d’essence pèseraient environ 20lb. Ce que j’ai perdu en poids dans le moteur, je l’ai regagné et plus encore dans la batterie. L’essence est environ 50 fois plus dense en énergie que les batteries au lithium. J’ai commandé des arbres de transmission sur mesure chez Tom Woods Driveline. Ils ont amélioré les joints universels à des 1350. J’utilise un chargeur de batterie de 6,6 kW qui comporte un chargeur DCDC de 1,8 kW. Un chargeur DCDC change la tension du pack de 400V en 12V pour les choses normales de la voiture. 1.8kW est à peu près la même chose qu’un alternateur de 140amp, mais beaucoup plus efficace. Saviez-vous que les alternateurs ne sont efficaces au mieux qu’à 50% ? Donc, un alternateur de 140 ampères est en fait un alternateur de 280 ampères, sauf que 140 ampères sont gaspillés en chaleur ! C’est fou. La charge se fait par une prise standard J1772. La même que celle que vous pourriez voir dans une station de recharge à l’extérieur d’un hôtel ou autre. La Jeep ne sera pas compatible avec le réseau Supercharge de Tesla.
Les gens demandent toujours combien de temps il faut pour recharger. Eh bien, cela dépend. Est-ce que j’ai épuisé le pack au point d’avoir besoin d’une dépanneuse pour rentrer chez moi ? Eh bien, dans ce cas, il faudra environ 13 heures. La vraie réponse est que je ne sais pas et que je m’en moque ! Pourquoi ? Disons que je vais au travail, puis au magasin et que je rentre à la maison. Cela représente environ 80 km. Cela utilisera environ 20kWh sur mon pack. Il faudrait 3 heures pour la charger. La raison pour laquelle je ne m’en préoccupe pas est que je la branche quand je rentre à la maison et que je l’oublie. Je rentre, je regarde la télé, je mange et je vais me coucher. Le matin, elle est pleine. A-t-il cessé de se recharger à 23 heures ? Ou à 1 heure du matin ou quelque part entre les deux ? Je ne sais pas. Je dirais que c’est la chose la plus difficile à comprendre pour les propriétaires de véhicules non électriques. On ne vide jamais la batterie… JAMAIS ! Les gens demanderont ce qui se passe si vous vous rendez à un endroit « X » et que vous n’avez plus de batterie ? C’est comme si vous demandiez ce qui se passerait si vous tombiez en panne d’essence dans votre voiture à essence, que la station-service la plus proche était à 160 km et qu’il n’y avait pas de réception de téléphone cellulaire ? Est-ce que cela pourrait arriver ? Bien sûr. Mais est-ce que cela arrivera un jour ? Pas du tout. Si vous êtes sur le point de conduire votre voiture sur un tronçon de route de 200 miles de long et que vous savez qu’il n’y a pas de station-service, allez-vous commencer ce voyage sans regarder votre jauge de carburant ? Le ferez-vous sans faire le plein avant de partir ? Bien sûr que non ! C’est la même chose avec les véhicules électriques. Chaque matin, la Jeep sera pleine. Chaque matin, j’aurai une autonomie de 300 km. Je peux soit conduire 100 miles dans une direction et revenir, soit faire 5 voyages de 20 miles, soit conduire 10 miles et la brancher pour le reste de la journée. Le lendemain matin, elle sera pleine.
Les plans futurs consistent à remplacer les essieux d’usine par des essieux d’une tonne provenant d’un camion de grande taille. Tant que je n’aurai pas fait cela, je ne pourrai pas exploiter toute la puissance du moteur Tesla. Les différentiels des essieux d’usine ne sont pas conçus pour supporter un tel couple.
À ce jour, j’essaie toujours de régler tous les paramètres du moteur pour qu’il se comporte comme je le souhaite. Pensez-y comme à la programmation d’un système d’injection de carburant. Si vous vous trompez un peu dans une courbe, vous obtiendrez de très mauvaises performances et vous risquez d’endommager le moteur. Même chose avec un moteur électrique. Une fois que tout cela est réglé, j’ai un système stéréo de 900 watts à installer avec un subwoofer de 10 pouces. Je me dis que si l’on doit avoir un véhicule silencieux, autant avoir une chaîne stéréo puissante !
We love to present you unusual projects at the magazine. This week we have a very special one indeed… a jeep/Tesla… We came across this vehicle completely by chance on the web, and whether we like it or not the direction that technology is taking us more and more towards the electrification of our passion. Not all off-road enthusiasts are interested in this new technology, but for some it’s something else. This is the case for Bill Bayer, the owner and designer of the Jeep/Tesla. We asked him to tell us a little about his project.
I grew up in Missouri dividing all of my kid-time between riding my bike and making stuff with Lego’s. I even submitted an idea for a model once. I received a very nice rejection letter and a fantastic poster of a Lego Space Shuttle. In high school I took automotive mechanic vocational classes my junior and senior year. After graduation I went to Rankin Technical College for Automotive Technology. I never did get a professional job as a car mechanic though.
A few years after graduating college I joined the Air Force. I served the first four years in England as a Tactical Fighter Maintainer on the F-15E. For reason that escape me now, I voluntarily cross-trained into Weather Forecasting. I did not like it at all but finished out my service retiring after 20 years. While in the Air Force, I was deployed to Afghanistan. There I began to question military politics and motivations. Why do we fight? It didn’t take long to determine that most of the time the reason is Oil. This made me very angry but what could I do? One day after giving a weather briefing to the deployed commander, I discovered a website called Electric Vehicle Television (EVTV.me). The brains of the business was a now deceased man named Jack Rickard. He converted a 1969 Porsche Speedster replica using Lithium Phosphate battery cells. His philosophy was that if a fat man wearing yellow shoes falling down drunk can build a car that uses no gasoline and can travel 100mi on a charge why can’t car manufacturers?
Chris Paine proposed this very question in his wonderful documentary « Who Killed the Electric Car. » Jack Rickard also suggested that all a person has to do is go out to his garage, sweep out a spot roughly the size of a car and go change the world! I took this challenger very seriously. I can’t change politics, I can’t stop wars over oil and energy security but I can reduce or eliminate my dependence on them.
I returned from Afghanistan a changed man. A few years later I was stationed in New Jersey where my EV building began. My first conversion to kind of get my feet wet was a 1969 Rokon that I picked up when I was in Alaska. It originally had an awful 125cc two-stroke engine. It was hard to start, not very powerful, smelled terrible and was noisy. I replaced it with a 5hp DC motor and a 48 volt Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. (first picture). It was a huge success. My next project was a 1994 Ford Ranger truck. I converted it using an AC induction motor from HPEVS and 144 volt lithium iron phosphate battery pack. (second picture) It, too, was a huge success. I took it to every car show I could find for the next 5 years. I discovered that not only could I stop buying oil but I could also spread the word about EV’s and how much better they are than gasoline/diesel burning vehicles.
It’s not only that they don’t use petroleum products and are arguably better for the environment. EV’s are just BETTER! They’re simple, elegant, efficient, quiet, smooth, fast and fun to drive. More than that, if you go into your garage and make one, it’s absolutely the most satisfying thing you can do with your time and money. It is not a way to save money. A conversion will cost at minimum $15,000 (a little less than I put into the Ranger), in excess of $50,000 (what I have in the Jeep) and beyond. The payback period is 10-20 years. But what’s the payback period on your couch or big screen TV? It’s not about money.
Moving on. I retired from the Air Force and moved to Cape Girardeau, Missouri where I got a job at, of all places, EVTV!! I worked with Jack for just over a year. While there I finished a couple of conversions that they had started and did a complete conversion of a 1992 VW DoppelKabine « The Doka » using a Tesla Drive Unit. At the time, it was one of the first conversions using a Tesla motor. (third picture of me and Jack) There is a great short video of the Doka. Search for Smoka Doka in youtube.
A gallon of gas has roughly 34kWh or energy. That’s 13x MORE energy used to do the same amount of work. 13x more energy WASTED. For the same amount of energy as a gallon of gas, I could mow my entire yard for an entire summer! It’s obscene. Every one has a mower. Everyone wastes that much energy. That’s exactly what I mean when I say it’s not about money. Automobiles aren’t that bad. They only waste about 4x as much energy as an EV.
Now the Jeep.
I’ve built this as a no compromise EV conversion. I’ve always loved Jeeps. It started out as a stock 1997 Jeep TJ with a 2.5L engine and 5 speed trans. I have modified everything on it. The only thing I haven’t really touched is the body tub. That’s not exactly true. I converted the rear swing-out tailgate to a drop tailgate. The suspension is a long arm kit from IronRockOffRoad. You cut off almost all of the factory suspension mounts from the frame and axles and bolt in a center structure where the new suspension arms mount.
A truss is welded to the rear axle for the upper arms. I also installed an over-the-knuckle steering kit. I did this as much for it’s toughness as the factory steering arms looked ridiculous with the new beefy suspension. I re-geared the differentials to 3.07:1, installed chromoly axles, installed a « lunchbox locker » in the rear diff, installed a rear disc brake kit and a disc upgrade on front. Ironically, the improved braking is largely unnecessary as EV’s have regenerative braking so the normal brakes rarely get used! From there I started making the mounts for the Tesla motor. I’m using a rear Drive Unit from a wrecked Model S Performance. The DU replaces the engine, transmission and transfer case.
It has up to 500hp and 425lbft of torque at the motor. I replaced the factory 9.38:1 gears in the drive unit with 4.5:1 gears. Those, combined with the 3.07:1 diff gears gives me a final drive of 13.8:1. That’s basically like being in 1st gear all the time. You can get away with this because the Tesla motor spins up to 16,000rpm! I should have a top speed of around 100mph and a 0-60 time around 5 seconds. The DU weighs 300lb. The 4cyl, 5 speed and transfer case weighed 660lb. Electric propulsion is dramatically more power dense than internal combustion. I’m using a full 90kWh battery pack from a Tesla Model S or Model X. It consists of 16 24 volt modules that each weigh just over 50lb. Combined with the battery racks, the battery adds over 1000lb to the Jeep. 90kWh is equivalent to 2.6 gallons of gas. 2.6 gallons of gas would weigh about 20lb. What weight I lost in the motor I gained back and more in the battery.
Gasoline is about 50x more energy dense than lithium batteries. I ordered custom length drive shafts from Tom Woods Driveline. They have upgraded 1350 Ujoints. I’m using a 6.6kW battery charger that has a 1.8kW DCDC charger built it. A DCDC charger changes the 400V pack voltage to 12V for normal car things. 1.8kW is about the same as a 140amp alternator except MUCH more efficient.
Did you know alternators are at best only about 50% efficient? So, a 140amp alternator is actually a 280amp alternator except 140amps is wasted as heat! Crazy. Charging is done through a standard J1772 plug. The same as you might see at a charging station outside a hotel or something. The Jeep will not be compatible with Tesla’s Supercharge network.
People always ask how long it takes to charge. Well, that depends. Did I run the pack down to the point where I needed a tow truck to get home? Well, in that case it’ll take about 13 hours. The real answer is I don’t know and don’t really care! Why? Let’s say I drive to work and then the store and then come home. That’s about 50 miles. That will use roughly 20kWh or my pack. It would take 3hr to charge. The reason I don’t care is because I just plug it in when I get home and forget about it. I go inside, watch TV eat dinner and go to sleep. It’s full in the morning. Did it stop charging at 11PM? Or 1AM or somewhere in between? I don’t know. I’d say this is the most difficult thing for non-EV owners to grasp. You don’t EVER run the battery out…EVER!! People will ask what if you drive to « X » location and run out of battery? That is like saying what if you ran your gasoline car out of gas and the nearest fuel station is 100 miles away and there is no cell phone reception? COULD that happen? Sure. Is it ever going to happen? No way. If you were about to drive your car on a stretch or of road that is 200 miles long and you know there are not any gas stations, will you start that trip without looking at your fuel gauge? Will you do it without fueling up before you leave? Of course not! Same with EV’s. Every single morning the Jeep will be full. Every single morning, I’ll have 200 miles of range. I can either drive 100mi in one direction and come back or I can go on 5 20-mile trips or I can drive 10 miles and plug it in for the rest of the day. The next morning it will be full.
Future plans is to swap out the factory axles with one-ton axles from a full-size truck. Until I do that I will not be able to realize the full power of the Tesla motor. The differentials in the factory axles are not made for that much torque.
As of today, I’m still trying to get all of the motor parameters correct so it behaves the way I want it to. Think of it like programming a fuel injection system. Get a curve a little wrong and you’ll have very poor performance and could damage the engine. Same with an electric motor. Once that is sorted out, I have a 900 watt stereo system to install complete with a 10″ subwoofer. I figure if you’re going to have a quiet vehicle, you might as well have a loud stereo! 🙂
We all know the expression « you have to learn to walk before you can run. » But, unfortunately, we often seem to forget this. Today, the image is more important than the result, and we want to do and have everything right away without spending too much money or time searching.
That is true in several cases but let us focus on the automotive modifications and specifically the off-road 4×4. Of course, I am not a guru, and I do not know everything, but I still have enough experience to tell you about this phenomenon, which makes me smile every time.
Whether in a modified car meet or a 4×4 event, we have all already seen modified vehicles which, at first glance, make us wonder about the owner’s priorities. I will give you a typical example to illustrate what I am talking about: a Civic 95 with a Japanese engine swap, a modified air intake, a high-performance exhaust system, a lowered suspension (often homemade by cutting the springs yourself), a kit of skirts and deflectors as well as a spoiler. The vehicle can look good, fast, and efficient, but unfortunately, most of the time, the budget is put on anything flashy. With a vehicle pushed to its limits, it would be wise to ensure that all the basic mechanics are in good condition before spending money on engine performance improvements. A more powerful engine is sure exciting but is it safe to speed up a vehicle without testing the suspension geometry (homemade low suspension), without verifying the state of wheel bearings, without modifying the brakes?
But enough about cars, I was illustrating my point with an example we have all seen. The same happens with off-road 4x4s. In this article, I have put together a list that, in my humble opinion, will help you prioritize your projects, thus allowing you to have a great experience, avoid being a burden on those with whom you ride, and that will save you a lot of time and bad positions. This article is NOT a list of MUST-DO’s but rather a list of things to consider to ensure a positive and long-lasting experience in the off-road world.
When you think of going off-road with a 4WD, I sincerely believe that the first investment should be in rescue/recovery equipment: a good winch (at least 1 ½ times the weight of the vehicle), good front and rear tie-down hooks, a good sling, a bungee rope (Bubba Rope is often the first name that comes to mind, but there are several kinds), a hi-lift, and a toolbox with a minimum of tools to carry out emergency repairs in the trail. And I am only listing the most important!
I know it is not quite as flashy as a nice, elevated suspension and cool, big new tires, but I guarantee you can have a lot of fun with a stock vehicle and good recovery equipment! At least you will not be a dead weight to your friends if you happen to venture a little too far for your vehicle’s capabilities or have a minor mechanical breakdown. In addition, you will gain much more experience trying to make your way with a stock vehicle, and you will even take greater pride in it!
When the time comes to put on a higher suspension and bigger tires, there are factors to consider to prevent headaches and band-aid solutions that only solve problems that could have been avoided in the first place.
You should know that the simple fact of raising a vehicle changes its aerodynamics and therefore increases fuel consumption. Adding the increased weight of the tires, the difference in air displaced by the tires, and the extra force required of the engine to move those bigger tires will cause excessive fuel consumption, lack of power and the vehicle will not behave as expected. Also, depending on the suspension brand, the geometry and behavior of the vehicle (spring rate and stiffness of the shock absorbers) can significantly change the handling. Finally, do not forget that this added weight, the shift of gravity, and the different road behavior will also change the braking capacity, the handling, and points where the vehicle will roll over. When shopping to raise your 4WD, the most important thing is to do your homework. By that, I mean that with all the information available (Internet, forums, specialized auto shops, magazines, etc.), you have all the necessary tools to make informed and targeted purchases according to your needs.
Regarding the solutions I was talking about earlier to counter some effects of larger tires, the most often underestimated one is to change the gear ratio of your differential. I have tested it on a few vehicles, and this change makes the most significant difference. The gear ratio plays a huge role in the equation, whether it is for fuel consumption, acceleration response, transmission behavior, maintaining cruising speed without downshifting, or even the ease of overcoming obstacles.
Increasing the gear ratio (e.g., from 3.73:1 to 4.10:1) will increase the number of revolutions required by the engine to make a complete turn of the wheels, which will increase the force deployed. I will go into details in another article for those who want further explanation on this principle. In the meantime, if you wish to change your differential ratio, I strongly advise you to consult a professional and ask lots of questions to get a good idea of your needs. Also, knowing what use you will make of the vehicle is essential, as this has a significant impact on your decision.
Another underrated solution is the braking system. The increased weight of the tires will increase the vehicle’s kinetic energy (mass x acceleration/speed). If you look a little bit at physics, you will understand that any vehicle’s brake system uses friction to transform kinetic energy into heat energy. Nothing is lost, nothing is created, everything is transformed! So, if you have more kinetic energy, you will also have more heat energy. More heat can cause brake problems like premature wear, drum glazing, disc warping, or even broken calipers. You can improve your braking system with, for instance, high-performance ventilated rotors, high-performance pads with better heat resistance, and drum to disc brake conversion. Plus, drum brakes keep a lot more dirt inside, which will cause them to wear out and rust prematurely.
Then comes the transmission. For a manual transmission, there are fewer impacts, although if you put a lot of weight on your tires, a quality clutch could be something to consider to avoid excessive slipping. For both manual and automatic transmission, heat is the number one enemy! And, as with the brakes, friction generates this heat. So, when your clutch slips, it overheats the transmission and can even destroy it. That is even more true in the case of an automatic transmission where the clutches are done automatically. More strain on the automatic transmission will often expose it to more slipping. A transmission radiator can be a great solution to keep the transmission cooler. Depending on the setup, the transmission could be modified to make it stronger (shift kit, higher quality clutches, etc.). One thing that does not cost a lot that will give you peace of mind is a transmission temperature gauge. With that, you always know what is going on inside, and if it starts to heat up, you can give it a break or adapt your driving accordingly. If you are towing with your vehicle, this is even more important! Changing the differential ratio will also go a long way in reducing slippage by putting less strain on the transmission.
I am stopping here to let you simmer it all and not stuff your head with too much information. Come back for the second part… I will talk about vehicle armor (protection plates, differential covers, rock sliders, bumpers, etc.), lighting (adjusting the front headlights, having good lighting that does not drain the electrical system to be able to get out of dead-ends at night, etc.), the importance of dragging a spare tire, and other things to think about! I reiterate that this article does not list mandatory things but rather things to be considered for a positive and pleasant experience for all!
OK, I see a lot of Rubicon owners who don’t even really know why they bought one. They wanted a Jeep, and many of their friends with jeeps told them « you definitely need a Rubicon » …
But what is the real difference between the Rubicon model and, for instance, the Sahara model? Many people say to buy the Rubicon because « you need that to go on the trails », « it’s like a tank », etc. And yet we could easily follow 90% of them on their trails – without a Rubicon.
Named after the famous Rubicon Trail in California, the Rubicon option has been available since the 2003 TJ. It’s actually a range better suited for off-roading.
There are several differences, but I think the most important are the following.
First of all, the four-wheel drive system. The Rubicon is equipped with a Tru-Lok system allowing you to lock the rear differential only, or both front and rear differentials at the same time. This can be beneficial when off-roading. The Rubicon has two D44HD differentials, whereas the Sahara only has the rear one.
The Rubicon also includes a switch system on board to electronically disconnect the sway bar. The purpose of the anti-roll bar is to help reduce sideways tilting of the vehicle. When your vehicle tilts on one side or the other, the bar is forced to twist and resists the torsion which will force the wheel to adjust to a similar level as the other wheel. For instance, in a curve, vehicles tilt over toward the outside of the curve. The sway bar applies a counterbalancing force to the suspension to keep the vehicle as level as possible. While the anti-roll bar is very useful on the road, the fact that you can disconnect it when you are on the trails is a big benefit; your suspension can work independently and it gives a lot more flexibility to your front differential. Note that driving on the road with a disconnected sway bar can be very dangerous as it seriously affects the vehicle behaviours.
Another interesting feature is the transfer case’s 4:1 gear ratio allowing you to drive extremely slow. This will make your life easier when it comes to rock crawling. The Rubicon has 4.10:1 and the Sahara has 3.21:1 gears. Your gear ratio is the number of turns your driving shaft must make for every one rotation of your axle. The ratio is the number of teeth on the ring gear divided by the number of teeth on the pinion. The Sahara 3.21:1 gear ratio means that the driving shaft must make 3.21 turns for each rotation of the axle. A good gear ratio will give you a better balance between torque and speed. Like a bicycle, higher gears for going fast on the roads and lower gears for climbing steep hills.
But is all of that really useful? Unfortunately, a lot of people have been wrongly advised, and they think the Rubicon is an invincible war machine. In order to choose the right vehicle for you, you first need to know what you want to do with it. Generally for beginners, even the performance of a non-Rubicon model that is properly driven should give you more than enough. Many claim to be hardcore enthusiasts, but in fact most of them haven’t left a whole lot of stock parts on their Rubicon. For many people, a D44 is an HD differential, and more advanced off-roaders go through Dana44s like crazy.
If you go on easy trails 2-3 times a year and do nothing extreme, a non-Rubicon model would do the job and be a better option for you.
We take a stock 2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara to see what it can do out of the box. This particular Jeep did not have locking differentials or mud terrain tires like the Rubicon.
If you wish to go on more difficult trails – but easier than advanced – and you think about modifying your vehicle (we’re not talking about led bars here), the Rubicon is a good start. Dana44s are more than enough for many people, lockers are already installed, etc.
If competitions or extreme, hardcore trails are your thing, you probably don’t need the Rubicon. Most enthusiasts at that level go through D44s non-stop and change diffs, gears, suspension, transfer case, steering (for hydraulic), etc. It doesn’t make much sense to buy the Rubicon and spend more money on oem parts if you are only going to replace them all.
In conclusion, it’s a matter of needs versus price. As the Rubicon is significantly more expensive, it’s important to determine your needs before you buy one. It’s definitely the option to go with for a better off-road performance. Non-Rubicon models are great as daily-drives and still do well on the trails.
Jeep is one of the biggest success stories in the U.S. auto industry (248,000 Wranglers sold in 2018). What makes the brand so desirable?
There must be an explanation because, to be honest, the vehicle is not fuel-efficient or the most practical for everyday life, and it has several other slight problems.
Of course, the fact that Jeep is part of war history can be interesting for some people. We do not think this is the main reason for its popularity, but it undoubtedly helps setting it apart from its competitors.
Jeep has had the advantage of having few competitors over the years, and it is arguably the only player in its category. With the arrival of the all-new Ford Bronco, the market could change. No other model or brand had offered the off-road capabilities of the Rubicon or removable doors and roof to enjoy a sunny day. The Ford Bronco will certainly muddy the waters in this regard. The new player is not the first to take on the Jeep market, but all others have failed. Time will tell how the giant Ford will do.
It is a matter of timing. Jeep is responding to a particular need as we live in a society where everybody is focused on image and trying to stand out. The manufacturer offers its customers a vehicle that stands out thanks to its unique design. While all other models are about aerodynamics, Jeep has kept its square box style. As mentioned above, many people want their own identity and try to be different and noticed. You may disagree, but the Jeep is a bit like the Civic of SUVs. It offers a lot of possibilities to modify the vehicle into something that represents you. Even if thousands of people own the same model, none of them will look the same. With some affordable extras, you will have 35-inch tires, side steps, a custom bumper, and a star on the door.
And if we push it a bit further… Both men and women can enjoy the Jeep, but it particularly meets the needs of men.
Other times, other customs. Contrary to men of previous generations, men today are more sedentary and enjoy the many technologies and services available on the market. Over time some manual tasks have been abandoned. However, there is a certain nostalgia and a desire to reconnect with basic tasks. Companies have noticed this trend and have based their marketing on products that make male consumers feel like the pack leader. Several examples come to mind: the popularity of Harley-Davidsons, plaid shirts, beards, ax throwing, Viking series, and so on. That is why Jeep has adapted its product to offer a more rebellious look, which allows a return to a more nomadic lifestyle in more extreme road conditions.
For all of these reasons, Jeep has successfully created a sense of belonging, an essential element in a well-developed marketing plan. Customers who are so loyal to the brand will not be too bothered by the vehicle problems. That is what we call « a Jeep thing. »
The Jeep Gladiator is a good example. You like or dislike the look, but with remarkable sales figures (155,000 units sold since its release), the manufacturer has proven that having loyal customers can still bring positive sales results despite product issues. The sales figures are impressive given that the vehicle is quite expensive – it does not offer all the advantages of a pickup truck nor the Wrangler, but it almost combines the price of both.
For some owners, the Jeep offers good off-road capabilities, especially the Rubicon model. However, the vast majority of sold units will never or will rarely go off-road. The Jeep gives a sense of freedom. It represents adventures and escapes from big cities to explore the wilderness. It also represents our more extroverted side. Jeep may even mean family, friends, club, and activities. And it may be the reflection of our personality.
As long as Jeep remains a Jeep… I believe they will always be successful.
Un riche homme d’affaires décide de créer son propre modèle de 4×4.
En 2016, Land Rover annonce l’arrêt de la production du Defender, son iconique 4×4 au catalogue depuis 1948* ! Pour Jim Ratcliffe, PDG du groupe pétrochimique Ineos, l’industrie automobile britannique ne peut pas voir disparaître ce modèle mythique. C’est autour d’une pinte de bière, dans le pub « Le Grenadier », que lui vient l’idée de créer son propre « 4×4 utilitaire dépouillé et ultra-résistant ». En un clin d’œil, et après le vote de 6000 internautes, la future production prendra le nom du bar où il a été pensé !
Jim Ratclife, le grand patron du géant pétrochimique Ineos, un grand amateur de la marque Land Rover (on peut d’ailleurs y voir des similitudes) a décidé de partir sa propre production de véhicule 4×4. Cinq ans plus tard, le premier véhicule sort de la chaine de production portant le nom du pub où l’idée est née…
Propriétaire d’une équipe de cyclistes et d’un club de soccer (l’Ogc Nice), l’homme le plus riche du Royaume Uni investit plus de 600 millions d’euros selon les estimations du Financial Times et a remporté son procès en propriété intellectuelle contre Jaguar-Land Rover.
La vision était simple. ‘’Véhicule 4×4 moderne, fonctionnel et très performant, dont l’utilité est au cœur du concept », a déclaré Toby Ecuyer, responsable du design. « Un design facile à lire, sans ambiguïté sur le rôle du Grenadier dans la vie. Il est là pour faire tout ce dont vous avez besoin, et rien d’autre. Rien n’est destiné à être montré. Les techniques modernes d’ingénierie et de production garantissent que le Grenadier est très performant, mais nous avons pu rester fidèles à l’essence même de la création d’un véhicule utilitaire qui résistera à l’épreuve du temps ».
Dans une ère où la plupart des catégories de 4×4 s’enligne vers le mode SUV plus que le mode vraiment 4×4, le concepteur trouvait que les véhicules 4×4 offrent de plus en plus de confort et s’éloignent tranquillement de l’essence de la robustesse d’un véhicule à toutes épreuves.
Pour ce qui est de la motorisation, ils se sont tournés vers BMW. On peut retrouver des 6 cylindres en ligne BMW essence et diesel de 249 et 285 ch. Le véhicule viendra, malheureusement pour certains seulement avec une transmission automatique. Le constructeur parle aussi d’un projet de pile combustible pour le futur.
Pour l’instant, aucun prix n’a été avancé par le fabricant. L’intention n’est pas de compétitionner les grandes marques de véhicules qui produisent des milliers d’exemplaires par année. Selon le patron, ils seront plus chers que ces véhicules et avoisineront les prix d’une Mercedes class-G par exemple. Donc, on peut s’attendre à un véhicule avec un coût considérable et qui ne sera pas accessible à tous les portes-feuilles.
La compagnie avait comme intention de produire 25 000 unités par an dans son usine située à Brigend au pays de Galles. Elle planifiait engager 500 salariés afin d’accomplir cette tâche. Mais le 8 décembre, Ineos fait l’acquisition de l’usine Smart. Située à Hamback, en Moselle, dans l’état présent, l’usine est capable de produire plus de 140 000 véhicules annuellement.
Pour ce qui est des spécifications mécaniques, nous n’avons pas encore beaucoup de détails. La compagnie promet une suspension robuste (nous avons souvent entendu cela, c’est àvoir) avec des pièces facile à remplacer en sentier avec peu d’outils.
Je crois que les amateurs de hors route ne peuvent que se réjouir quand un nouveau joueur se présente, la compétition est toujours de bonne augure pour les consommateurs. Même s’il n’est pas pour tous les portefeuilles, la recherche et développement peut toujours être intéressante pour tous.
Acheter un véhicule hors route ou qui a eu une vocation hors route auparavant n’est pas une mince affaire. Si on ne veut pas avoir de mauvaises surprises, on doit avoir en tête quelques éléments à examiner pour nous donner un aperçu complet du véhicule ou des dommages présents ou à venir prochainement. Ceci peut vous sauver beaucoup de problèmes et d’argent dans un futur rapproché.
1 : Sachez ce que vous voulez et ce dont vous avez besoin.
Avant de chercher, il est utile de réfléchir à ce que vous attendez de votre 4×4. S’asseoir et réfléchir à l’utilisation que vous souhaitez faire de votre 4×4 est probablement le moyen le plus simple de restreindre la recherche et de trouver un véhicule qui a plus de chances de cocher toutes les cases. Ce n’est pas parce que tout le monde vous dit que ça vous prend un Rubicon par exemple que c’est nécessairement vrai. Par exemple, 80% des gens que j’ai vu en sentier en Rubicon auraient réussi les mêmes passages avec un modèle non Rubicon pour beaucoup moins cher. En connaissant vos besoins vous serez en mesure d’évaluer le type de caractéristiques recherchées :type de suspension, capacité de remorquage etc.
2 : Faites vos recherches.
Une fois que vous avez réduit votre recherche à 2 ou 3 modèles, faites vos recherches. Consultez les sites Web de voitures d’occasion tels que « carsales.com » et faites-vous une idée du prix moyen, du kilométrage et de l’état du modèle de votre choix. Ces sites permettent également de comparer côte à côte les caractéristiques des véhicules, ce qui est un bon moyen de réduire encore le nombre de modèles disponibles. Allez sur des forums et des sites Internet et trouvez les problèmes les plus courants pour le modèle que vous recherchez. Certaines marques et certains modèles ont des problèmes communs tels que la transmission, la direction, etc. et il est utile de savoir ce qu’il faut rechercher. Tenez compte de la disponibilité des pièces et des coûts d’entretien pour le modèle de votre choix. Devenir un expert de la marque et du modèle qui vous intéressent peut vous permettre de connaître le juste prix du véhicule sur le marché et de savoir quels sont les problèmes à surveiller. Lorsque vous achetez un 4×4 d’occasion, la connaissance est le pouvoir. Oui, ça vous prendra plus de temps mais c’est du temps bien investi.
3. Ignorez les arguments de vente.
Il est amusant de constater qu’un Monster truck qui défonce les buissons peut soudainement devenir le « taxi de la femme après l’école » lorsque le propriétaire cherche à le vendre. Regardez les preuves physiques plutôt que de croire le propriétaire qui cherche clairement à obtenir le meilleur prix. Posez beaucoup de questions et s’il y a des incohérences dans l’histoire, il vaut mieux être prudent. Par exemple, un taxi qui vient chercher les enfants après l’école ne devrait pas avoir de rayures importantes sous le véhicule. Si vous achetez dans une succursale de vente n’oubliez pas que le hors route n’est pas nécessairement la passion et le dada du vendeur. Il a peut-être une bonne connaissance sur la vente de véhicule mais pas sur le hors route en général donc la description des capacités du véhicule peuvent être très limités.
4 : Privilégiez la stabilité mécanique aux modifications après-vente.
Il peut être très tentant d’opter directement pour le camion doté de toutes les modifications dont vous pouvez rêver. Ils ont l’air costauds et tellement plus performants en tout-terrain que les 4×4 standard. Mais pensez-y, en général, les gens apportent des modifications à leur 4×4 pour lui donner un bon coup de fouet en dehors de la route, il y a donc de fortes chances que les 4×4 modifiés aient été plus malmenés que les 4×4 standards. Commencez par un modèle standard, puis ajoutez les modifications qui vous conviennent. Si vous optez pour un véhicule modifié, demandez à voir toutes les garanties et les reçus d’installation, il vaut mieux éviter ceux qui ont été modifiés par des bricoleurs.
5 : Vérifiez sous le capot.
Points de contrôle cruciaux à considérer sous le capot :
Vérifiez l’absence de fuites : en particulier au niveau des composants critiques tels que les composants du moteur, la transmission et les freins.
Vérifiez l’huile : Retirez le bouchon du filtre à huile et vérifiez la présence d’un résidu mousseux. Cela peut souvent être l’indication d’un joint de culasse qui fuit et cette voiture doit être évitée. Vérifiez l’état du liquide de refroidissement et assurez-vous qu’il n’est pas marron et sale, car c’est non seulement un signe de manque d’entretien mais aussi de fuite possible du joint de culasse.
Vérifiez que les systèmes essentiels ne présentent pas de signes d’usure tels que des fissures, un dessèchement, de la rouille ou des réparations de carrosserie.
6 : Salissez-vous.
Les 4×4 sont souvent exposés à des conditions extérieures extrêmes telles que l’eau, la boue, les inondations, les fortes ondulations, etc. Jeter un coup d’œil sous le véhicule peut souvent être un excellent moyen de découvrir des dommages sérieux liés au hors route.
Mettez-vous à terre et inspectez le dessous de la voiture si possible à la recherche de fissures, de rayures importantes, de fuites, de désalignements et de rouille. Vérifiez soigneusement le système d’échappement à la recherche de fuites éventuelles.
7 : Vérifiez la carrosserie.
Lorsqu’il s’agit de carrosserie, il est utile de vérifier minutieusement. Évitez d’acheter des voitures qui présentent des traces d’accident ou des dommages au châssis.
La selle de la voiture ne doit pas être soudée mais boulonnée. Vérifiez que les boulons ne présentent pas de traces de rayures indiquant un ajustement ou un remplacement après un accident. Vérifiez l’absence de fissures sur les pare-chocs.
Accroupissez-vous derrière la voiture et inspectez les panneaux latéraux à la recherche de reflets de peinture irréguliers ou d’une surface inégale indiquant des travaux de carrosserie après un accident.
Ne stressez pas pour les rayures mineures, mais utilisez-les comme pouvoir de négociation pour faire baisser le prix de vente.
8 : Essai routier.
L’essai routier est généralement l’un des meilleurs moyens de se faire une idée du véhicule et de déceler les éventuels signes avant-coureurs. Voici quelques signes d’alerte à surveiller :
a) Bruits étranges : tout bruit étrange lorsque vous mettez le contact, tournez le volant à fond, utilisez les freins ou changez de vitesse. Tout bruit sourd lorsque vous tournez le volant à fond doit déclencher une alarme, car la réparation de la direction assistée est un exercice coûteux.
b) Voyants d’avertissement sur le tableau de bord : cela peut sembler évident, mais après avoir mis le contact, vérifiez soigneusement les voyants d’avertissement sur le tableau de bord. Le témoin de contrôle du moteur n’est jamais un bon signe.
c) la transmission : Pendant l’essai de conduite, essayez différents niveaux d’accélération pour vous assurer que le véhicule peut supporter des accélérations soudaines. S’il s’agit d’une transmission automatique, vérifiez que les vitesses passent sans à-coups, s’il s’agit d’une transmission manuelle, vérifiez si l’embrayage glisse.
d) Fuites : après un long essai routier, c’est le meilleur moment pour vérifier les fuites, car elles apparaîtront même si le propriétaire a essayé de les cacher avant l’essai. Vous pouvez garer la voiture sur une bande de béton propre et rechercher les fuites après le trajet. Vérifiez à nouveau l’absence de fuites sous le capot, sous la voiture et sur les rotules avant.
9 : Faites faire une inspection complète avant l’achat
Si vous pensez avoir bien examiné le véhicule et que vous envisagez sérieusement de l’acheter, demandez toujours à un mécanicien qualifié en matière de 4×4 de procéder à une inspection très complète du véhicule. Cela peut vous coûter quelques centaines de dollars, mais l’investissement en vaut la peine si vous n’achetez pas quelque chose qui vous coûtera des milliers de dollars à réparer plus tard.
10 : Apportez un ami, parfois nos émotions peuvent l’emporter sur la raison, et lorsque l’on désire quelque chose ardemment depuis longtemps, on peut porter moins d’importance à des problèmes. De plus, choisissez bien votre ami. Il est préférable d’éviter d’apporter son ami qui est également un grand fanatique de 4×4 et qui a autant hâte que vous que vous ayez enfin votre véhicule. L’ami à privilégier sera celui qui saura comment vous prévenir d’un mauvais investissement et qui pourra vous faire entendre raison.
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